Vol 1 of Peninsular Journal of Charles Crowe
of Coddenham, Suffolk: Soldier 1785-1854.
The following is the journal of Charles Crowe covering his time in the Peninsular War 1812-1814. This is volume 1 of a 2 Volume work (click here for Vol 2). The document is all in script and has not been previously published. In general it all reads very well as Charles had in fact rewritten it some years later in 1851. Volume 1 reads as follows:
A Faithful Transcript of my own Letters and Diary from The Peninsula In the years 1812 - 1813 - 1814
With my recollections of concurrent events
(Commenced Dec 29th 1842)
In the month of September 1812, the 2nd Battalion of the 48th Regiment, stationed at the new Barracks Chelmsford, was roused one morning, soon after the arrival of the mail, from the monotony of Garrison Duty, by the unusual early call from the bugle for orders. The sound put every one on the alert, but no one could explain the cause, for the Adjutant had not returned from the Colonel's quarters: whither clerks from the orderly room were repairing loaded with books and papers of returns. Curiosity and conjecture were at the highest pitch, when the Adjutant, his officials all bustle and haste, made their appearance; and encountered from many voices at once, the eager enquiry of "Well Dixon, what's in the wind now?"
His laconic response was "A detachment for Portugal: nine officers, and every effective man: parade an hour later, in heavy marching order; every one to be present; so my hearties look out!!" - and off posted this important functionary.
While the parade was forming, Colonel - now Lieutenant General Sir William Hutchinson Knight.G.C.H, put his arm into mine, drawing me aside, said, "The order I have received is very peremptory, that I shall be obliged to insert your name in the return, in spite of my wish to retain you here!"
I replied "I feel highly satisfied Colonel, by your kind wish, but truly I have now worn a Red Coast so long, that I feel anxious to earn a title to it, by foreign service."
"Well, well!" Rejoined the Colonel, "that is a right feeling on your part. I wish it was participated by others, but I am determined that some of our "skulkers" shall go! Captains Grey and Watkins, belong to the 9th Battalion, but are in no hurry to join! They shall go!" It will be shown hereafter how this good resolve was partially over rided.
Some weeks passed, and when the route arrived, I was unable to raise myself in bed, in consequence of a violent inflammation of the liver, and was so reduced that, when the Detachment passed under my window to 'The Grenadiers March' I could not help crying with vexation and disappointment. I was roused from my despondency by a knocking at my door, and in compliance with my feeble call of "Come in" that amiable and warm hearted creature, Mrs Hambly, who had just parted with her husband, brought back some music books, which I had lent her. She was naturally, all sorrow and excitement! She gave me her blessing, and good wishes for my recovery and rushed out again. This was the last time we met. Poor dear Lady! Hers was a short, but strange and eventful life!!!
In the course of that day Colonel Hutchinson kindly visited my sick room, and cheered my spirits by his animated witty and gentlemanly conversation. My recovery was rapid, for in about ten days I was able to creep into the sunshine in the Barracks Square where the Colonel, and even Mrs Hutchinson kindly joined my walk, occasionally.
During one of these saunterings, I told the Colonel that finding myself convalescent, I was anxious to obtain his leave to join the Detachment at Portsmouth by means of the coaches. He admitted the plan was practicable, if I was equal to the exertion, for after a long fortnight's march the Detachment had but just reached Wilsea Barracks, where, in all probability, they would wait three or four weeks for embarkation. In the most friendly manner he gently urged me to give up my plan, but finding me resolved, issued the order for my proceeding and kindly prepared for me, an early dinner in his own apartments before I started. The kindness I experienced on this occasion, I shall ever remember with gratitude and pride!
Saturday October 16th afternoon I packed myself into the coach for London and when I arrived at the Old Slaughter's Coffee House in St.Martin's Lane, a great resort at that time for military men, I found thirty miles journey was quite enough for my strength. And I began to think I had been rash in not harkening to the friendly advice of Colonel Hutchinson. The arrival of my old schoolfellow, my cousin, a surgeon near Pall Mall, cheered my exhausted spirits.
A good night's rest and excellent breakfast did me much good, so that when my brother joined me from Surrey, and offered to accompany me to Portsmouth I felt all my energies renewed. The proximity of The Golden Cross, Charing Cross, induced us to take the coach from thence. Of this we afterwards bitterly repented for we were from five o'clock on the Monday afternoon 'till nearly eight the next morning travelling seventy two miles. I was quite exhausted by fatigue, but roused up when my brother told me we were about to enter the Fortress, for we were approaching the palisades of the Half Moon, or Ravelin. How fervently did I wish myself outside the coach, that I might have had a full view of the imposing aspect of a regularly fortified town! I did make the utmost use of my languid senses, but our provoking coachman, who had for so many hours been drawing "his long length along" redoubled his speed, and we passed the palisades and the ravelin, rumbled over the drawbridge under the portcullis, and through the dark gateway into the town, with a celerity, which gratified his whipship, but not my curiosity. My military ardour awakened with the conviction that I was at length within a formidable fortress, the defence of which would require at least twenty thousand soldiers!!
We took up our quarters at the George Hotel, and engaged private apartments, that we might uninterruptedly enjoy the society of each other, until the following evening when my brother would return home.
Philip [Philip Crowe, 1779-1831], were it possible! Participated with more than a brothers feelings in my situation, because in the year 1799, he was in the same hotel, with our kind uncle Wisemann, previous to his own embarkation for the East Indies Army! During breakfast Philip questioned me relative to my prospects of promotion to a Lieutenant, when I expressed the utmost confidence which I felt in the promises of Lord Moira [Francis Rawdon-Hastings, 1754-1826], to our uncle Henry [Rev Henry Crowe, 1741-1816], and his Lordship's letter to myself acknowledging the receipt of Colonel Hutchinson's strong testimonial, especially as these were supported by the provisional application of my former Colonel Sir William Parker Bart of the West Suffolk Militia, who had been private secretary to his Lordship when Ambassador.
Philip admitted my hopes were well grounded, but thought that a letter to his Lordship from the port of embarkation for foreign service would be a good auxiliary. I therefore wrote the following, under his superintendence.
(copy)
Portsmouth Oct 19th 1812
My Lord,
Before embarking for Spain, I once more trouble your Lordship with my thanks for kindness, which I shall recollect with pride and gratitude, though it has not hitherto been accompanied with the success your Lordship intended.
I observed in last Tuesday's Gazette the promotions in the 27th Regiment but, however, my ambition may feel hurt at the non appearance of my nam. I trust that as a soldier I feel other sentiments which will not allow me to repine at so equitable an arrangement when, to the generosity which prompted your Lordship's former patronage, I have added the hopes, which a faithful discharge of my duties on service is allowed to encourage, I have finally to request that I may still be remembered. And then if your Lordship has an opportunity of getting me into the 27th Regiment I shall no longer regret the present delay.
My late Commanding Officer Colonel Hutchinson has given me so many flattering assurances of his approbation, and of his willingness to testify the same, that if your Lordship should have an opportunity of applying by letter to him, concerning my character, I feel confident that the result would be honourable to me, and satisfactory to your Lordship.
I have the honor to be etc etc
Etc etc
Charles Crowe
Ensign 48th Regiment.
To Lord Moira
Etc etc
To this, when in the Peninsula, I received the following flattering reply.
London 28th October 1812
Sir,
There was so much proper feeling and delicacy in the letter which you addressed to me that I thought it would be advantageous for you to have it perused by the Commander in Chief* (The Duke of York) and I am persuaded it has made an impression very favourable for you.
There being no less than six vacancies occasioned by the casualties of Service in the list of Lieutenants of my Regiment, I thought I could without injustice recommend you and another young man for whom I was interested for two of them, four Ensigns of the Regiment being to be promoted before you. The other person I knew to be as much an object of the Duke of York's patronage as of mine, yet His Royal Highness found it necessary to reject the application on the ground that there were eight Ensigns in the Regiment older than you two. In the event of another recruiting company being added to my Regiment (a measure long pressed by me as urgently necessary to keep up three Battalions on service) I have great hopes you would be appointed to a Lieutenantcy in it. The Duke of York has recommended the addition of that Company to my depot, but the Secretary at War has made difficulties.
I have the Honor, Sir, to be
Your obedient servant
(signed) Moira
Ensign Crowe
48th Regiment
With the forgoing, I find I have preserved the following copy (the original I transmitted to Lord Moira) it is so characteristic of my kind friend, that I must transcribe it here:-
New Barracks
August 29th 1812
Dear Sir,
You were pleased some few days ago, to apply to me for a testimonial of my opinion of you as an Officer under my command. It becomes, therefore, a matter not more due to justice than productive of sincere satisfaction to me thus to certify that I have marked with an highly approving eye your diligent attention towards, and accurate performance of your duty in all respects, since I have enjoyed the honor of commanding the second Battalion.
Believe me to be
Dear Sir
Your very faithful humble servant
Colonel & Lieutenant Colonel. 48th Regiment
Ensign Crowe
48th Regiment
Chelmsford.
My brother and I were about to sally forth to view the town, when I spied Captain Grey. This gave me a good opportunity of reporting my arrival, and I requested him to obtain permission from the Commandant at Wilsea Barracks, where the Detachment was quartered, for me to remain in lodgings near the seaside, for the recovery of my health in conformity to the instructions of our Surgeon at Chelmsford. My request was readily granted for the Barracks were so over full, that Officers were living two, three and even four, in one room. In our walk I met with my fellow Ensign, Hambly, and told him my plan when he promised to ask his brother-in-law, Twincham, a Purser in the Navy, residing at Southsea to search for lodgings for me. We met many more of my old companions, all of whom were surprised to see me there. Philip and I wearied ourselves in our peregrination over the town, and along or rather round the fortifications, and mutually regretted the supineness of Government in having suffered a densely inhabited town, like Southsea, to have sprung up within less than half range of shot immediately in front of the Queen's, and nearly so of the King's Bastion where an enemy might at once make a strong lodgement.
The next evening my kind brother left me by the Mail. When I went into the coffee room of the hotel, and found myself very solitary!!! I was looking at a newspaper, without reading a word, for my thoughts were far away when I was roused by the loud voice of my compeer Hambly, as he entered with some Officers of the Fusiliers. He came across and asked me to join their supper party, but I declined by saying my health and spirits would not enable me, and that I intended to go off to bed early. He regretted I would not, for he had promised to show his friends some of his sleight of hand tricks, and he wanted my assistance, so he would call me to join them after supper to which, at his earnest request I assented. It was very evident that some of the party had encountered a previous carousal, for they soon became very talkative, and my chum very easily conglomerated their bewildered senses by his expertness. One of the salt cellars from the table, he apparently swallowed, somewhat, of the cut edges hurting this throat, but offered to swallow any other moderately sized article with a smoother surface if they would offer it. The young fellows had been preparing for their voyage, accordingly one produced a cake of Windsor soap, another a bottle of Cheltenham Salts. Both of which followed the salt cellar - "not heeding consequences!" Weary as I was, I could not help laughing at the utter astonishment of the dupes. Hambly next offered if any one had a half crown in his pocket, he would show the reflection of it from the ceiling, with the King's head downwards. The coin was soon produced, and very soon after was sticking to the ceiling, as promised to the confusion of the owner, and to the great delight of the waiter, who was watching the proceedings. This man was very attentive to my breakfast next morning, and expressed a fervent hope that my friend would come every evening, for he was the most clever gentleman ever seen, and it was very kind of the gentleman not to conjure the half crown down again, for he had himself taken care of that before he went to bed.
The most ludicrous part of the exhibition next ensued. With the flow of language indispensably requisite with legerdemain, Hambly complained very much of the uneasiness of his stomach, and expressing his fears that the glass salt cellar would come up, begged the excuses of the company if he should be obliged to disgorge it. The apology was readily assented to, for every one expressed an earnest desire to see it again, that they might be convinced that it had been down. Consequently after much groaning, and many contortions and distortions, the salt cellar was seen half way out of his capacious mouth, and was replaced on the table. All gazed with astonishment, but no one would defile his fingers by touching it! While their attention as thus engaged a sudden noise brought the bottle of salts again to sight. In course of time and after much palaver, the cake of soap reappeared.
Hambly offered each article to their respective owners but No! Neither would touch an article which had been into a man's paunch!! Consequently, at the close of the evening, I, as an invalid, received the bottle of salts as my share of the proceeds of the performance, and Hambly retained the soap to assist him in scraping off his black beard.
His next trick was new to me, for I had never seen him preform it before. He bit a good sized piece out of a wine glass, and to appearance, ground it with his teeth into an impalpable white powder. This, I afterwards found out, was a piece of tobacco pipe which he had dexterously substituted for the piece of glass. The trick however succeeded to the admiration of all the party. But one young fellow, who was decidedly the worse for his potations, would, in spite of our remonstrances, attempt the performance of this trick himself, ant bit the glass so unguardedly, that he cut his lips and face most lamentably. Beyond all doubt he bitterly repented his folly next morning. This bloody circumstances broke up the party.
The following day, through Hambly's assistance, I ensconced myself in very comfortable lodgings, in Belle Vue Terrace, Southsea, facing the Queen's Bastion. The upper story was occupied by Major Dickerson of the Marines, who had come from Plymouth with his bride to spend the honeymoon. I sent a note up to him requesting permission for the private marine who waited on him to clean my accoutrements. This was granted and after a few days I found the Major's card on my table. I duly returned the compliment, and the first evening that I was invited to take tea with them, I found the bride's youngest sister, and brides maid, was of the party which was increased by the arrival of Lieutenant Foot, Flag Lieutenant to the Port Admiral, and his wife who was another sister.
Foot was a frank, open hearted, merry Jack Tan, "full of life and full of glee." When I alluded to having been in the West Suffolk Militia, Foot enquired of I knew Lieutenant Patrick and his wife. I replied, "Indeed I do, for I am happy to say I was most intimate with them, and spent most of my evenings at their lodgings!" At which declaration, Foot surprised me by exclaiming
"Holla, avast young fellow! I have found you out - Oh, ho! You are an old flirt of my sister's, Mary Patrick!!! Can Poll talk as fast as ever?"
I answered - "Not quite so fast as her brother!" At this he gave my hand a grip from which it did not fast recover.
"Aye, yea!" He replied, "I find that my sister Polly has taught you some of her pertness! Now then," he continued, "that I know all about you young chap, I will give you some good advice. You see that little fire frigate on the other side of the room," pointing to his young sister-in-law, "she has twice been bride's maid, to my wife, and to Dickerson's, and is now keeping a sharp look out for her own promotion. I see she is preparing all her sails to bear down on you. And if you do not keep your weather eye up, she will carry you into Port Matrimony before you know your bearings!!" The jocase sally produced a hearty laugh from all the party, and a lusty box on the starboard bows of the rattling Lieutenant from the lively and lovely bride's maid. I enjoyed many pleasant evenings with this merry company.
Hambly introduced me to his sister Mrs Twincham and her husband. And they introduced me to the family of the Comptroller of Customs, Mr Williams, a very find handsome man, and his wife was also very handsome. Their family were very engaging particularly the second daughter, about twenty years of age, with flaxen hair, bright blue eyes, a beautiful complexion, an amiable and lovely countenance, and most prepossessing manners. In fact I verily believe that had I been long stationed there, I should, like Corporal Trim, have fallen souse over head and ears in love! Thus a fortnight passed very quickly and very pleasantly.
November 6th
The troops were embarked, before I was aware. And Hambly engaged a berth for me, on board the ship John, with himself. Accordingly I sent my sea stock on board the next day
November 8th
I met my friend Lieutenant Vander [Vandermeulan ? page 18], who, when he had heard of my plan, exclaimed "That will not do! You will lose all the benefit gained by living quietly in lodgings. There are seven Commissary Clerks on board the John, whom Hambly will keep playing cards all night, and worry you into another illness! You shall go in the Isabella with me, there is only Lieutenant Cobbould of the Dragoons, a very gentlemanly pleasant fellow. Come with me to the Transport Office. I know the old Comptroller, and will persuade him to transfer you to my ship." After much persuasion the sturdy weather beaten tar granted our request. Fortunately we were enabled to arrange about my sea stock sent on board for just as we regained the High Street we met Hambly who reimbursed me. By Vander's assistance I very soon prepared another, and more frugal stock, and sent it to the Blue Ports Hotel, at the Point, where Hambly and I had engaged beds for the night, that we might embark early the next morning.
I was well pleased with this new arrangement for I found Hambly's unceasing flow of spirits was at times very overpowering! We very wisely engaged a boat's crew to call us, and to take us on board for Sunday November 9th. We were awakened before daylight by a violent knocking at the house door, and before we could half dress ourselves, the waiter in great hast came into the room to say the Commodore had fired his signal gun and hoisted the Blue Peter! Under these circumstances not a moment could be lost. We swallowed a hasty breakfast while the men were taking our luggage to the boat, then hurried off.
As we passed out of the harbour we beheld the whole of the fleet under way, and, apparently leaving us behind, which made me regret very much that I did not go on board the day before with my friend Vander instead of spending the evening with Mrs Twincham to console her on the departure of her husband, appointed Purser to the Magicienne [42 gun frigate under Capt Hon Willam Gordon], our Commodore's ship, a beautiful new frigate, and this her first voyage. My anxiety not to loose my passage convinced me of the risk Officers run by lingering on shore to the last minute and resolved in my own mind to profit by the present experience, should the chances of war allow me to see another embarkation. Thus, on reaching Lisbon, I was not surprised to find both our Captains Grey and Watkins, had not arrived.
At the same time there were strong grounds for suspecting they had purposely stayed behind! If such was the fact, the plan did not answer their purpose. For Colonel Hutchinson on being informed of the circumstances, determined to follow up his resolution as expressed to me in the Barrack Square at Chelmsford and lost no time in making his report to the War Office. In consequence of which the two renowned sculkers were ordered to remain at Wilsea, until another opportunity offered for them to embark.
The morning was very fine, the bright sun enlivened the animating scene, and as the wind was light, we rapidly gained on the fleet, which dispelled my fears and raised my spirits so that I was able fully to enjoy the very imposing sight which amply repaid me for my past anxiety. The whole channel between the Hampshire coast and the Isle of Wight was covered with canvas, every vessel being under full sail, all bound to the same port conveying so many hundreds of Britain's hardy sons, eager to fight for their country's glory!!!
Beyond the middle of the fleet we came up with the Isabella, and the John, not far distant to windward. I was heartily rejoiced to get on board and to receive the congratulations of my friend and his companions.
Vander having returned from Portugal with the skeleton of the 2nd Battalion after the fatal battle of Albuera, was quite an old sailor, well versed in all that was going forward, and kept up the interest of the scene by imparting a great deal of information. He possesses a book of signals by which he explained the one made by the part or our convoy in the van, the Niemen frigate and the Columbine, Brig of War - "Lay to for the Commodore!"
Soon afterwards we saw the Magicienne coming up with every sail set and swelling with the breeze.
She passed not far from us, in most beautiful and gallant state, towering over us, as a lofty steeple over the nave of a church making our Brig the Isabella and all the other transports look like Cockboats attending her Sovereign will! It may be truly said, "that an English Man-of-War under full sail is on of the grandest sights in the world!!" The delay however proved unfortunate for us, by enabling a boat to reach us, which, but for that, could not have come up with the ship. Vander was on the sharp look, and exclaimed "I am sorry to say there is a boat making for this vessel with a grim shabby looking old chap in a brown great coat, and confound the old curmudgeon! I declare he has no sea stock with him!!" How shall we manage this business my friends?" For as the old soldiers say on service 'A joke is a joke, but keep your hand out of my haversack these hard times!' We agreed that there was no alternative but to admit him to share with us. When he came on board, we were glad to find his address was more gentlemanly than his dress! And that he was Dr Rice, a Staff Surgeon of long standing. He very handsomely apologized for not having any sea stock, and assured us that he did not receive his Order for Embarkation until Friday, and reached Portsmouth so late on Saturday, that he had not time to do more than obtain his order for a ship.
We passed the Needles in fine order about 4pm with a fine and favourable wind. After which we went to dinner but only the Doctor and myself could sit it out.
At night I found my bed excessively hard. The tow of which my mattress was made was so scanty that it had become two knots in hard earnest. The next day I made a friend of the Mate who had exchanged it for me and lent an additional one. We were now out at sea, with a brisker wind which convinced us that our vessel lived best in a fresh breeze. No small consolation this, in the month of November! The master explained this circumstance by informing us that a ship is coppered for three years service, but his had been seven as a transport. And her owners apprehending that she would be paid off ere long were unwilling to spend their money about repairs.
As nothing but a distant view of the Isle of Alspunt on the French coast occurred for some days I will fill up the tediousness of a sea voyage with a brief sketch of the extraordinary life of my brother Officer Hambley, whom I have already so often mentioned and of whom I shall have much to say hereafter.
His father was a merchant at Truro, in Cornwall, and more than once Mayor of that Borough. According with the spirit of the time, he made some rash ventures, and the French ouivzers took off his cargoes, whereby his prospects were ruined. He then went to Gibraltar, and opened a store or warehouse.
My companion obtained a commission in the Cornwall Militia from which he volunteered as Lieutenant of the 23rd Fusiliers, taking with him his quota of men, which would entitle him to retain the same rank in the Line, according to the Regulation then in force. Every Officer was obliged under such circumstances to give each man an additional bounty to accompany them, and thus Hambley expended nearly a hundred pounds. He had a very long march to perform with his men, to join the Depot of the Fusiliers at Colchester. When he arrived near London, he learned with vexation and dismay, that another Regulation had been issued and that no more Officers would be allowed to retain their rank. Full of indignation he hastened to the War Office, and from what he stated to me I am inclined to think, demeaned himself more according to the justice of his claim, than the peculiarity of the case. However this may have been he was so dissatisfied with the reception he had experienced, that he returned to the Detachment, rashly gave over the charge to a Serjeant, sent his Commission back to his old Commanding Officer, and embarked for Gibraltar.
He was soon weary of an idle life, and being well versed in the Spanish language, accepted an appointment as Lieutenant Colonel of a corps of Patriots up the Mediterranean. There he remained nearly a year and half, but disgusted with the service, where the men were so badly fed, worse clothed, and still worse paid, he again returned to Gibraltar. His next essay was to join Lord Wellington's army as a volunteer, was attached to, and carried his musket in the very Regiment, the 23rd, in which, but for his rashness, he might most probably been a Lieutenant of some standing. Here he encountered much privation and hardship. But after the Battle of Albuera obtained an Ensigncy in the 48th Regiment, one of the eleven then appointed at Northampton a few days after I had joined the 2nd Battalion. But there was too great a dissimilarity to admit of our being very intimate.
Hambley was senior in years to most of the Officers present, but was nevertheless boon companion with all the youngsters, and accompanied them by day and by night in all their wild pranks. One evening when thus engaged, Hambley was collared by a Footman, whom he knocked down, and then escaped.
The man's master was wealthy and independent, a retired lawyer, disliked by all his neighbours for his litigiousness, a violent Whig, fond of finding fault with Government and everything therewith connected. A complaint against the Military was consequently quite to his taste. He therefore compelled his servant to identify his assailant. No easy task this, in a dark winterly night! Thus the servant guided solely by size fixed on me, and the third morning afterwards, when I was at breakfast, a Constable walked in with a summons from the Mayor. I was totally ignorant of the event until that moment. But having been the whole evening in question, in company with Assistant Surgeon Wright, and the night also, for we occupied the same room at the George Hotel, I was enabled to establish a most unquestionable alibi, and carried the business through with a very high hand! Not failing to give the Whig lawyer a right good wiggin for his want of courtesy.
I have detailed this circumstance, because I know of no other reason for Hambley's partiality to me.
Soon after this we marched to and occupied Weedon Barracks, with the Depot of the 14th Regiment. At mess one evening the conversation related to a Ball at Daventry, about five miles distant. Some present were much disposed to accompany those Officers of the 14th who were going. When Surgeon Wright casually said, he had no doubt his old flirt, Miss Bayley would be there.
"And who is Miss Bayley?" enquired Hambley. Wright told him that Miss B. was the daughter of a Clergyman, a D.D. [Doctor of Divinity] in that neighbourhood. That she was a very pleasant and animated young lady of about five and twenty, and very fond of dancing.
"Give me," said Hambley, "a note of introduction, and I will go and dance with her, or forfeit a dozen of wine to the mess." After very great persuasion Dr Wright did write a chit that note, and off started the votaries of Terpsichore.
Suffice to say that, that day three weeks, Ensign Hambley and Miss Bayley were dully married! And a very happy couple they were while they lived, pool souls!! Hambley had not been long with the 1st Battalion in Portugal ere he received a letter from his wife, stating that her father was dead, and that if he did not return to her assistance there was great probability that she would not receive even seven instead of ten thousand pounds. This letter was submitted to Lord Wellington, and Hambley obtained leave to return to England on private affairs. After this I saw him no more. He purchased a Lieutenancy in the 49th and sailed with a Detachment to join that Regiment in Canada. The ship was wrecked on the coast of Newfoundland. Hambley exerted himself with his wanted activity and presence of mind, but a tremendous wave swept him and many others of the wreck. He made good his landing on the shore, and when he had recovered his strength a little, returned on board to save his wife. This unfortunate pair was next day washed ashore locked in each others arms!
The history of my ship mates is quickly told. Vander is now Senior Major in the 73rd Regiment, and Lieutenant Colonel in the Army. Poor Cobbold soon returned home, and died of consumption.
Sunday 16th November.
Vander and I agreed to reverence the day, and a parade for Divine Service had been ordered. I was to have officiated as Chaplain, but the rain was too heavy to allow any but the sailors working the ship to remain on deck. The Master dined with us. When he left our cabin he foresaw a storm, and gave orders accordingly. Late in the evening the Hatchways were closed, and covered over with tarred purlings and a most awful night ensued. The wind blew great guns, and the sea ran mountains high. Our ship pitched and tossed and reeled most furiously. Sleep was out of question, especially after midnight, when the table broke from the lashings to the floor, and set at liberty all our trunks stowed beneath, which drove slap bang from side to side as the vessel rolled. Thus Cobbold and myself in the lower berths were alternately in dread of unwelcome intruders. I succeeded in catching hold of and securing my own trunk, and was leaning forward to reach Vander's when Dr Rice, anxious about his case of instruments, dropped from the berth above, and caught my head between his thighs. At this very juncture, the ship lurched suddenly to narboard [Page 30], so that the Doctor, being rather short, could but just reach the floor, and by clinging to his own berth, save himself from falling backward. Thus I remained in a pillory without the possibility of withdrawing my head, to the great amusement of our opposite companions. Pinching and thumping availed me not, for the Doctor could not budge a jot, until the ship righted on its way to falling to starboard, which made the Doctor scramble up to save his legs from the trunks, and thus set me free. All of us now could join the hearty laugh, and joke the Doctor's nimbleness in saving his shanks. Our glee was however, cut short, for as the ship was rising on a lofty wave and appeared to stand on end, a cross wave struck our stern, made every plank and timber quiver, smashed our dead lights, or storm window shutters, to atoms, and shipped much water.
Cobbold and I had now to change our operations, and were obliged as the vessel rolled to either side, to hold up our bed clothes to prevent the water washing into our berths, and were thus employed until the water by degrees found its way under the cabin door to the ship's waste. All this was bad enough, but in the hold, where men and horses were so closely stowed, the scene was horrible! Three fine horses were suffocated, and falling against those next to them, threw them down, and they by their plunging injured others. When the storm mitigated in the morning, so as to allow the hatchways to be partly opened and fresh air admitted some men fainted.
As soon as practicable the dead horses were drawn out of the hold and thrown overboard. But it was a very difficult undertaking to set the other poor fallen and frightened animals again on their legs, during the continued rolling of the vessel. Other ships also threw their dead horses, the most crowded had, consequently, more casualties. There were very many detachments of Dragoons embarked in the fleet, particularly of the Oxford Blues, who lost a very many of their fine black horses. The sea presented a melancholy scene, covered with floating carcases as far as we could see. Our rigging stood well, but some vessels were greatly shattered, and some two or three were obliged to run before the gale, and returned to Plymouth.
Our convoy scudded about in all directions to collect their scattered charge. We maintained our central position. About 3pm Vander descried a suspicious square rigged ship close in shore hugging the wind under easy sail, for we had crossed the bight of the Bay of Biscay, and could discern the Spanish coast. Our Master pronounced the stranger to be an American Man-of-War. This unwelcome intelligence induced us to go down and muster our men between decks, as well as we could, and make them look to, and prepare their arms and ammunition, in case of an attack during the night. When we returned on deck our Commodore had the signal flying "Look to the strange sail at Windward." And away went the Brig of War, our Columbine, dashing and splashing in most gallant style through the lofty billows which seemed all to combine to oppose her progress. We watched her with a lively interest, as long as the daylight lasted, then returned to our cabins, and having made as good a meal as the rolling of the vessel would allow, we laid down, sword in hand, prepared for any alarm. Having however, to make up for lost sleep the night before, we soon forgot our cares and anxieties until the morning.
The weather continued very rough, and on the Friday 21st November we encountered another boisterous gale. The want of exercise made me very unwell, and not even the conjured bottle of Cheltenham salts could conjure me relief.
22nd November.
We stood close in to the coast of Portugal and expected to enter the Tagus, but the wind was adverse.
Sunday 23rd November.
We were roused early by the Master conversing in Portugese with the pilot he had engaged, and found the scene around us very interesting. On our left was the formidable Fort St.Julian. Behind and much above were the rocks which formed part of the Grand Aquaduct supplying all Lisbon with most excellent water, the interstices connected by lofty arches. On our right was a dangerous shoal which we skirted within pistol shot, the channel being so narrow. On this shoal is built the strong Fort de Bugio [Saint Lawrence of the Dry Head], bristled with numerous guns. From thence the shore on each side is rocky, and bold. That on our left was well inhabited all the way. But the southern, separated from the city by the broad river, or estuary, alternated by clusters of rocks, hamlets, and vineyards. In one of these I saw, to my surprise, ten or a dozen men hard at work, totally regardless of the holy day. The wind was light and unfavourable, barely sufficient to enable us to make head way against the strong tide which runs six knots per hour. This however afforded us ample time to admire the beautiful appearance of the city, hanging, as it were, on the side of a rock. The glare of the white buildings was oppressive to the eye at mid day, but the setting sun threw a pleasing tinct on the whole, and made every house visible. The uniformity of the buildings, with the streets at right angles presented a very prepossessing aspect.
We anchored opposite the fish market, after five o'clock. Our companion Dr Rice having no charge on board, and being as much at home, as he would have been in London, landed with the pilot, leaving a pressing invitation for all of us to dine with him on the morrow. After it became dark I watched in vain for the lamplighters, the paucity of light scarcely made darkness visible, and afforded no appearance of the extent of the city, and scarcely of its locality. But all doubts on this latter point were silenced by the horrible barking and howling of the innumerable dogs. To this we became insensible when ensconced in our berths, and in full enjoyment of the quietude of a harbour, we did not fail to redeem the lost sleep of the week past.
24th November
Cobbold would not leave the ship. But Vander and I went on shore, reported ourselves at the offices of the Adjutant General, and Town Major, and obtained a billet for both at the same house, which we could not visit that day. So to make the most of our time we went to dine with our late chum Dr Rice and much enjoyed our visit. In the evening about 9 o'clock we engaged a boat to take us on board. The tide was flowing rapidly, but our boatman pulled so lazily that I was soon convinced we should not reach our ship. This probability annoyed me excessively for we had been on shore without authority and I was vexed that in the very outset I should expose myself to the censure of Captains Grey and Watkins, whose conduct towards me at Chelmsford I had been obliged to highly resent, when they betrayed their foolish jealousy of Colonel Hutchinson's partiality for me. My friend Vander was too old a soldier to heed such things. He did however expostulate and exhort the men, but all to no purpose.
I was provoked at their want of energy, and standing up, I half drew my sword, and pointed significantly to the bright blade while I made it glitter with the light of the moon. Vander telling them at the same time, that I was a most desperate blood thirsty fellow. All this was of no avail, for we went more than a boat's length astern of our ship.
There was only one expedient, namely to return to the lee of the shore and make another attempt, to which our boatman agreed, but as soon as we regained the shore, the scoundrels jumped out and ran away, shouting aloud "that the English were going to kill them!" I was much too angry to join my friend's hearty laugh at this upshot. But I could not have carried my resentment so far as he did, by kicking the boat off into the current, whereby the men lost their boat as well as their pay.
It was now too late to obtain another boat. We were obliged, therefore, to return and state our case to the Doctor, who prevailed on his landlady to make two beds on the floor of the sitting room where we dined.
25th November
Our men disembarked, and marched into Belem Castle, where we left them in charge of an Officer of the Regiment stationed there on Depot Duty. Here we learned that Captain Grey had lost his passage, and that Captain Watkins, his ship had returned to England during the storm. Thus my friend Vander became the Senior Officer of the Detachment.
We two traced three miles through vile and dirty streets to Lisbon, to make good our billet on an "Illustrissimo!" who was not at home, but his servant according to orders received from this illustrissimo, conducted us to a house in a back street where we were shown one room, with one table, and six chairs, and were informed that was all we had to expect.
This was too bad! So we obtained another billet, which was on an Archbishop, No.39 Rua do Salibie, and in a back wing of the house we were accommodated with four rooms and a kitchen, all very clean, and facing to the south we did not need any fire. At night we greatly enjoyed the clean beds. We were far away from active parts of the city, to the northward of the Inquisition, and lived very comfortably free from idle callers. Only once did we catch a glimpse of His Holiness the Archbishop, at a window towards the garden. His Major Domo was very civil, but a crafty old chap. For instance, we desired him to take a bottle of porta, part of the small residue of our sea stock, to the Archbishop with a polite message. The next day when we enquired if His Holiness relished the porta, the old fox confessed that considering it much to heavy a beverage for a person so grievously afflicted with the gout as the Archbishop, he had drank it himself, and as it was so very good he would gladly accept another bottle! But we thought this was too much of a good thing!! I will not attempt a history of Lisbon but as a passing soldier merely state that I found it much smaller, more poverty stricken, and by far more filthy, than I expected. Its extent I thought somewhat larger than Dublin. The dock yard was a burlesque on the name, all its stores consisted of five small anchors, a small quantity of cordage and the frame of a frigate on the stocks, in the same state as when the English first entered Portugal.
In most of the old streets the ruins left by the earthquake of 1755 still stare you in the face, and form dens for the innumerable half wild dogs which lurk therein by day, and by night act partly scavengers to the city at large by feeding on the refuse thrown from the various houses, to which they rush in swarms by the instinct of experience, and many quarrels occur while the more peaceably disposed members of the community cull the choice morsels! When the French occupied Lisbon, Marshal Janot [Jean Janot, 1754-1820] gave an order and two thousand of these dogs were killed one night!! By the numbers we saw we should not have imagined that such a slaughter had ever taken place. The declivity of the city is from north to south, consequently the transverse streets are generally on a level, and these are filthy beyond the apprehension of an Englishman!! It is no easy task to cross them by day, and rashness by night, as we found on our return from the river to the Doctor's lodgings. In our progress we heard the vile shouts "Aqua Ni" water is coming, which they are obliged to call thrice and show a light. But the shout and light were on our side of the street, and as these execrable deluges are thrown from the attic or fifth story, we could not identify the exact house from whence the nuisance was coming, and our only recourse was to ensconce ourselves in the recess of some door way, and escaped tolerably well. Had the light been on the opposite side, we could have bolted away at once. In Lisbon there are no underground sewers, no water closets of any kind. A large bucket with a board laid on the top receives the slops etc etc of all the house, and at night is poured from the attic into the street.
At our billet we enjoyed the comfort of a regular retreat at the corner of the garden. The walk to it was planted on one side with orange trees, on the other with Qumous each bearing half ripe fruit, and an abundance of blossoms.
Except in the modern streets, the ground floor of the houses is used as a stable, or store for wood and lumber. The large arched doorway is open during the day, facing which is a broad staircase leading to the top of the house. Each story of which is generally occupied by a separate family, who burn frequently during the day lavender and various herbs to drown obnoxious scents. And as every family makes its own selection for such purposes multifarious are the fumes which assail the olfactory nerves when ascending a flight of these stone steps as we fully experienced when we called on the worthy old Quarter Master of our regiment, who had arrived to take charge of the stores which we had brought out.
My friend Vander urged me to obtain Dollars for a spare Bank of England note which, like a young soldier, I had failed to get exchanged at Portsmouth, and conducted me to a banker on the quay, where the ground floors are occupied as stores or warehouses. In one of these, the whole front occupied by the door and the open window, the shutters to which hung down outside, like a butcher's shop, an elderly man stood listlessly behind a counter, whereon were placed an ink stand, some pens, a quire of long writing paper, and a few piles of dollars, about 20 or 30 in each, these formed the whole visible stock of this Yeleped Banker, alias, Money Changer. Being satisfied by inspection of my bank note, he went to work with pen, ink and paper, in a long multiplication sum. I could not resist calling out "What on earth is the fellow about?" "Let him along, replied my friend, he will not produce a dollar for your note until he has rendered the sum into Mille Rez, twenty of which make a Nintin, that is not worth three halfpence. The old chap at length crept into division: his paper barely long enough to allow him to ascertain that my ten pounds were worth 35 dollars! Just three fourths of its sterling value, or six and three pence for the dollar. The Officers of the Life and House Guards purchased all the horses and mules in the market. A very indifferent mule fetched 120 dollars, equal to £31.10.0 so that many were satisfied with a donkey, or booro, to carry their luggage, and to make use of their own legs.
I purchased a canteen consisting of an oval hamper covered with an undressed bullocks hide containing the following appurtenances. A tin boiler capable of holding a gallon or more, another within that into which event a tea kettle and a pot, with shifting handles, pepper box, a salt cellar, and a gridiron occupied a half of the space. The next partition was fitted with two tin canisters filled with two pounds of moist sugar and about a pound and half of tea. In the other compartment were two tin plates, two knives and forks, two iron spoons, two earthen cups and saucers with pewter spoons. For this ordinary fit out I paid twenty dollars, or £6.5.0! I grudged my money excessively at the time, but every day's experience made me better satisfied with my purchase.
4th December
At half past seven a.m. Lieutenants Delacey, Hambley and I embarked from Belem Castle with our men, in Men-of-War's boats, and floated up the river on the tide. The weather was delightful, and the scenery interesting, particularly when we reached Alliandra, the right of the famed Lines of Torres Nedras by which Lord Wellington defended Lisbon. This was considered the weakest point in the whole position on account of the level ground and broad road skirting the river. To counteract this difficulty, gun boats were moored, so as to command the valley to the first hill. Weak as the point might have been, I should not have relished the duty of forcing it in the face of a brave enemy. We landed at Villa Franca [Villa Franca de Xira] between one and two p.m., a distance of 25 miles which was accomplished without great exertion to the sailors who rowed us. And a very pleasant trip it was. Moreover, we thus gained a point that would have required two days long marching. I obtained a good billet with a clean comfortable bed on the floor and slept very soundly as any soldier need to do.
Hambley and I agreed to mess together during the march. He was glad to avail himself of the comfort of my canteen and I was glad to make use of his knowledge of the Portuguese language.
5th December
We marched to Azambuja, and every one of the party felt himself a soldier in right earnest. The men felt the weight of their knapsacks loaded with a blanket in addition to their usual contents, surmounted with their tin canteens containing the remains of three days rations, and of their cartridge boxes charged with sixty rounds of ammunition.
And the Officers, followed closely by their loaded Booroes, marching in the rear, felt their responsibility for any misdemeanour of their men. This place showed the devastation of war, few houses were habitable, and scarcely one had escaped injury. The inhabitants we found remaining were emblems of poverty and dirt. My bed - nay the walls and the floor of the room - swarmed with fleas. Truly "their name was Legion!" And they were as avaricious of English blood as their masters of English money. I was regularly flea botomised. I had no fear of plethora, on the morrow, for my body corporate was far more dense studded with punctures than this paper is with letters! And the Muschetos maintained a full share in the concert.
6th December
We marched to Santarem, and never did I spend a Sunday so little to my own satisfaction. We were fully aware that the Commandant, Lieutenant Colonel Royal of the 61st Regiment was the greatest martinet in the service, and that he was posted here in virtue of that very amiable qualification!! True it is, that the distance from Lisbon, and the steep ascent of the day's march, especially from Cartaxo (pronounced Cartashio) were sure to daunt the ardour of fresh arrived troops. And equally true it is, that Santarem was not a resting place for any of Sergeant Scully's party, i.e. no sculkers could remain there. Lieutenant Delacey commanding our party, having been in Portugal formerly, well knew the necessity of strict discipline, and was very anxious to avoid the severe censure which most generally was bestowed on detachments arriving at this station. He appointed me to bring up the rear, and not to leave a man behind promising to lead the party slowly forward, and to await my arrival before he marched in. The day was bright and warm, and our whole route exposed to the sun, the towering rocks on our left kept away every breath of the northern breeze. I had a most laborious duty, but with threats and persuasions, and occasionally carrying two or three muskets for the poor young fellows, I brought up the rear in good time, and we marched forward in compact order. The buffstick Colonel was on the watch, and accompanied us to the Market Square. When we formed line, he deigned to speak. "What Regiment? What is your rank and name? How many men have you left in the rear?" "None Colonel!" "Then Sir," rejoined this petty tyrant "I must admit I have never seen a Detachment march into this station in such soldier like order!!"
Delacey turned and gave me a wink of his eye, denoting congratulation on the success of our exertions.
Part of a large monastery formed an excellent barrack for our men, but we had to seek billets in the lower town, which was as dirty and beggarly as any other Portuguese town or village. Although not large, Santarem must have been a handsome city, before the arrival of the French Republican Army. The many large stone built mansions, with spacious courtyards in front, protected by substantial walls, with lofty arched gate ways, surmounted with Coats of Arms well cut in stone, proved the wealth and consequence of the Fidalgoes - or noblemen - who had been compelled to forsake their hereditary grandeur. The numerous convents and monasteries deserted, likewise showed the departed magnificence of this city on a rock.
All these religious houses possess great architectural beauties. The one where our men were stationed was very spacious, with an interior quadrangle, surrounded by a cloister, supported on Norman, or semicircular arches, which were sadly blackened by smoke from the fires lighted within by soldiers of various nations, who had at various times been stationed there.
After Lord Wellington's advance, this place was prepared for a hospital station. No one could be more admirably adapted to the purpose in every respect but in consequence of the rapid advance of the army it was only used for doubtful or lingering cases.
I was very sorry to find my shipmate Cobbold here. I believe the poor fellow never left it until he returned home to die. I also found here Lieutenant Brotheridge of our regiment. He was the first Officer I knew when I joined at Northampton where he used to amuse me in our walks with his desperately long yarns, relative to the Battle of Albuera [16th May 1811], the only one he ever saw! - of his being taken prisoner, his making his escape the same night by jumping out of a window of a large house in which he and the other prisoners were confined. Tom never forgot this sprain, but ever after had a knowing limp in his gait, with which, and his swaggering roll, his large cocked hat fore and aft, strapped like a Brigade Major's, and a long Staff Officer's feather dangling behind. Tom Brotheridge used to cut a desperate swell in the town. I have no doubt his minute recollection of Albuera was fresh in his remembrances until he died a Captain in East India for, some how or other, Tom took especial care not to burthen his mind with the recollection of another hard fought battle. Disregarding all his foppery, I was at the time much obliged by my old chum obtaining a bed for me, on the floor of his room, for my billet in the town was very indifferent. Brotheridge was suffering from chronic rheumatism. I could have borne evidence that he could not sleep at night, or allow me to do so. In one of his nocturnal perambulations in our room, he kept me awake by the following anecdote of the noble Commandant of that station.
Lieutenant Colonel Royal rose from the ranks, and had been Master Shoemaker to the regiment. Thus making good the old saying "Set a beggar on horseback and he will ride to Devil." I must confess I generally found such men were the greatest tyrants in the services. Watching the proceedings in the market, as he was want to do, the Colonel's attention was one day fixed on an Irish woman bargaining for a pair of shoes. Observing the watchfulness of the Commandant, the woman gave more for the shoes than she intended, and taking up her purchase advanced and addressed him - "Now Colonel, do you think that these shoes are really worth the money?" "Get away woman! What should I know about shoes!" "Och, now sure!" rejoined the soldier's wife, the time was when you knew good leather from bad!"
This leathery Colonel was pushed up in promotion by the Duke of Kent, the acme of martinets, and well known throughout the army as the especial patron of Officers risen from the ranks, on account of their rigid discipline whereas an Officer with gentlemanly feeling, and good sense, could be a strict disciplinarian without being a tyrant as we have witnessed in Sir John Moore, and the Duke of Wellington with very many others.
But this leathery Colonel was decidedly a tyrant, an inhuman monster as proved by his own confession at the mess table of the 2nd Regiment in Sicily. The conversation turned on the necessity of Courts Martial. "Oh! It is very easy to avoid that" exclaimed Royal, "for when I was Adjutant, a man was detected in stealing a leg of mutton. I shut him up in the Black Hole, with the leg of mutton suspended, and allowed him neither rations, nor release, until the bone was clean picked." An Officer present indignantly replied, "I beseech of you never again mention that circumstance, for, Sir, let me tell you it was disgraceful to a British Officer in every respect! Nay it was the act of a fiend!!"
Four of our men were obliged to go into hospital with diarrhoea, brought on by eating unripe oranges.
Tuesday, 8th December
Marched to Gallegoâ. [Golegâ]
9th December
Our march this day was pleasantly diversified. The chief of the route skirted the river Tagus [Tejo], and on our left the country was bold and very picturesque. We passed through Tancos, a dirty village delightfully situate under the hills, by the river side. Here Hambley unexpectedly met an old acquaintance, Lieutenant Wilbraham R.N. stationed here to forward the Commissary boats up and down, between Lisbon and Abrantes, a very poor recompense for 33 years long service. Although dignified with the high sounding title of Grand Cava da Mar - High Constable of the Sea - I thought his post was not in any wise an enviable one. He was surrounded with Portuguese soldiers who had been cavalry, but were sent to the rear disgraced and dismounted, for refusing to charge the French at Salamanca. Some of these dastards attacked Wilbraham a few months before in the execution of his duty, but like a true British tar, he beat them off, although they were four to one.
Wilbraham accompanied us some way on our march, and pointed to the spot where an English Officer and his servant had been murdered by these scoundrels. A curve in the road presented to us a most beautiful scene. A village embowered with orange trees, loaded with the half ripe fruit, and an abundance of fresh blossoms close to it. The Tagus gurgled in its rapid course, in the centre of which was an island crowned with a Moorish castle, very perfect in its outline, and once formidable, but now useless, except its pictorial effect. If I had been master of the graphic art, I must have stayed to have sketched this lovely picture.
Our route continued flat to the banks of the Zezêre river, which has its source at Beimento [Belmonte], below Guarda in the Serra de Estralla [Serra da Estrela] mountains, and in its course forms the segment of an ellipsis, before it joins the Tagus at this point, where it is very rapid and so broad as to require five and twenty pontoons or boats to form a floating bridge and which was guarded by these dismounted scoundrels. I was very much struck with the bold and commanding situation of the town of Punhete [Constancia] on the opposite side, where the Zezêre joins the Tagus at a right angle. The rock is perpendicular and lofty, on its summit to the town surrounded by ever greens had a very pleasing effect. The steep ascent from the river was a very sharp trial to our weary legs and feet. The fine church was despoiled and desecrated by the French, and ever since has been used as a barrack. At night the wife of one of our soldiers gave birth to a fine girl in this once holy place. We had been obliged to leave the poor woman on the road in a most forlorn condition. But as soon as I could unload my baggage I sent the pony and the husband back to fetch the poor creature. The next day, by the assistance of Lieutenant Wilbraham we procured a boat and sent the mother and infant to Abrantes to the Quarter Master's stores, with which she afterwards joined the Regiment.
10th December
We were well drenched this day, for it rained all the way to Abrantes. This small fortress was crowded with these dastardly cavalry, sent hither to be drilled into infantry, but I much doubt their ever proving worth the trouble, for they are thorough scamps. Some of them attacked a small party of the 68th Regiment at Punhete the night before our arrival there. The young ensign was frightened and ordered his men to fire, by which, one Portuguese rascal was killed and two wounded. We found a Court of Enquiry sitting here, and it was greatly feared that the poor young lad would lose his commission.
This fortress, although small, is formidable, placed as it is on a small hill, and approachable only by two roads. It stands at the distance of about a mile above the curve of the Tagus, and, by a telegraph on the castle, communicates with Lisbon. No boats of burthen can ascend beyond this. Every man of our party was rejoiced to halt here. More especially as our route is altered and our marched prolonged with only one short halt, in consequence of the Regiment moving to cantonments in advance. With this prospect before me I felt very anxious to procure some animal to carry me, for with long marches and lean rations, I did not regain my strength. But my purse began to be as slender as my body. I had only twelve dollars left, and yet was rich by comparison with my companions who had only two each. Still I was not able to compete with the rascally pisans [peasants] in their demands for their lean animals. I had already managed to exchange my booro for an old raw boned pony and as he had a good spirit I was well pleased with my bargain.
The Commissariat stores brought from Lisbon were landed on the Alentejo shore, or southern bank of the Tagus, near the village of Perales. Where they were piled in huge stacks, and covered with tarpaulins and painted cloths, occupied a vast extent of ground, and to the casual observer appeared inexhaustible! But reflection admonished me that there were more than a hundred thousand persons besides animals to be fed from these stores, and the vast piles dwindled into molehills. Large cargoes were daily forwarded up the country by brigades of mules or cars, each under the charge of a Capatras, or conductor. And the animals from England replenished the stock.
In the course of our march hither, I had frequently felt an interest in noticing the threshing floors, so often mentioned in scripture, and I felt no doubt that the lading of the mules was much the same as when Jacob's sons went into Egypt to buy corn from their brother Joseph. But I was quite astonished to see, in the 19th century of the Christian era, in a part of civilised Europe, cars of such truly primeval construction. The wagons presented to Moses by the Princes of the People at the dedication of the Tabernacle were very far superior, since, they were covered wagons! But these vehicles - I cannot call them machines, for they are undeserving the appellation - were merely a strong frame of wood, covered with boards, about five feet long and four broad, from the centre in front projected a rude beam of wood, with a cross bar at the end, to which two oxen were yoked by their horns, with broad straps of untanned hide. This frame is placed on a moveable axletree, which is a fixture at each end in a solid piece of wood, worn by friction into strange oblong shapes, however round they might perchance have been originally, causing a noisy and most laborious motion in their progress, incessantly rocking from side to side, which has oft times excited the execrations of the badly wounded soldiers who had to endure the additional misery of being conveyed to the rear on these rudely formed and vile carriages. The screeching and groaning of the revolving axletree, moreover, under its heavy burthen, added greatly to the wretchedness of the journey.
During our sojourn here, our soldiers had to pass over the Bridge of Boats, which afforded a communication with the stores, to draw periodically their rations of biscuit and fresh meat. On one of these occasions a brother Officer and myself were returning with the party, and two young Irishmen were carrying on a pole between them the fore quarters of a lean bullock, we met a Roman Catholic Priest, who looked attentively at the meat, and good naturedly exclaimed "Oh, noa estar bon, Senors (that is not good ) "No!" replied one of the young paddies "Why Old Buck, you are no judge of meat, for, in truth, it is all bone!!" This equivoke caused a general laugh, and the good tempered Padre laughed as heartily as any one, thereby denoting that he understood our language sufficiently to enter into the spirit of the repartee.
Sunday 13th December - I was well pleased to be able to employ the quietude of this holy day agreeably to my own inclinations. We pursue our march tomorrow, and are very thankful for this long halt.
14th December
We returned to Punhete, but not by the same route, for the Tagus was so swollen by the late rains that we were obliged to take a guide over the mountains, and to pass along the edge of precipices which made some of the Johnny Newcomes stare and tremble.
15th December
Marched to Thomar [Tomar], where our men were lodged in a monastery of vast extent, situated on a very steep mountain and capable of holding two thousand men without incommoding the small fraternity of monks, who, through all the vicissitudes of war and desolation had retained possession of the place of their former grandeur and power. They were very polite to us Officers, and offered accommodation in their own apartments, but we declined, and took up our billets in the town, which were unusually good. The architecture of this stupendous edifice was very remarkable, very elaborate, and even handsome, although I must think in very bad taste. Some of the large windows above had escaped the ruthless fury of French devastation, they were of the Norman, or semi circular arch. The stone work was carved to represent large cables entwined, and studded with sea shells, and were supported by pillars representing coral, with a vast variety of other devices, equally incongruous with ecclesiastical architecture.
The town of Thomar stands at the foot of the mountains, well built, the best we had seen, the streets tolerably well paved, clean, wide and regular. Everything, in fact, denoted the former wealth and influence of the monastery above.
16th December
We reached Friera [Ferreirra do Zezere ?], after a tedious march, for we strongly suspected that our guide wilfully led us a circuitous route. Here we found a strong contrast to our last quarters, empty houses divested of everything, even of door and window frames, and our men had very comfortless lodgings. Some Officers had joined us from the rear, and we here mustered seven, all of whom repaired to a large mansion near the town. The owner fled to Coimbra when the French took possession of the country, leaving an old gardner in charge. This man very kindly brought a large quantity of wood for me to burn, for, excepting the kitchen, mine was the only room possessing a fire place. I soon made a good fire and resolved to spend a comfortable evening in writing home, and drying my little wardrobe. But I was soon found out, and five of our comrades came to spend the evening with me, and were so well pleased with so agreeable a companion, to wit, the fire, that they stayed late, and left me with a small store of fuel for the night, which was very cold, the room large, and my blanket damp. My great coat was my only covering, a deal form was my pallet, and my writing case served for bolster and pillow.
The old gardner had a long story to tell about this house having been garrisoned by 200 French men, whom the natives attacked and, after an obstinate resistance, took the survivors prisoners. It must have been a most desperate affray. The Frenchmen fought for life, and that very many endured the forfeit, was evidenced by the large patches of blood dried on every floor. In my room there were many, and the window shutters were riddled by musket balls. I took a ball out of one.
17th December
To Cabacos, a small desolated village.
18th December
To Chaô de Coco (Chao de Couce - I was left behind to press a booro, or ass for a sick man, and thrice lost my way amidst the mountains and deluge of rain. My chum and self were billeted on the Padrè, or priest who was very civil and gave us wine, with good bedding on the floor. We were glad to accept his invitation to the kitchen fire, for the night was cold and damp, and we had not recovered from the chilling effects of our drenching on the march. Under such circumstances we scarcely heeded the almost infernal darkness of the apartment into which we entered for the warmth. It was about sixteen feet square, there was only the one door by which we entered, and a small oblong aperture opposite, and just below the lofty ceiling, and exit for the superabundant smoke, with every part as black as smoke could make them. The wood fire was on the hearth, with the chimney projecting over it in a hood like shape. We had small low stools to sit on. The further side was occupied by the old hag of a house keeper, or cousin Caithleene, as the Padrè called her, whose brown and wrinkled hands and face were equal strangers to the purifying quality of fresh water as were her garments. She occasionally rose to stir up the porridge in the caldron, or pot, for being Friday it was a fast, and again sinking on her low seat, resumed her cabalistic mutter of the Maria and Paternosters, and the fumbling of the rosary.
The Padrè enjoyed the full warmth of the fire in front. He frequently urged us to fish out from the pot, the half boiled chestnuts, and evinced a much greater interest in our conversation and jokes than the large bead roll which he held in his hand. I admit he did, ever and anon, mutter over something and slip a bead, but if such were prayers, they were "like Angels' visits, few and far between!!"
I have often thought our group would have most admirably suited the painters of the old school. There was an amplitude of impervious shade on the dexter side of the picture might be the sombre fire place, with the glowing embers, reflected on the brown face and hands of Cousin Caithleene, and shining on the fair, round, fat face of the Padrè. And our scarlet jackets in shade would well fill up the foreground. When we retired to our own room, the jolly priest most readily accepted our invitation to take tea with us. He drew a bunch of small keys from the capacious pocket in his flowing gown, and unlocked two small closets in the panels of the wainscot of the room, and took from each, three small puffs, or turnovers, containing a preserve of different plums. We ate them like hard fed soldiers, and never thought of the probability that the pastry was made by the dirty hands of his cousin Caithleene!
In the course of conversation we talked about oranges, and found our host was quite an amateur in the cultivation of that fruit. He went into his orchard and, dark as it was, selected six different kinds. The three we first ate were like many apples grown in our orchards, scarcely worth the cultivation. The next was better, and the two others were very superior. The Padrè was so much pleased with our encomiums that he said we should taste The Forbidden Fruit, such as "Our mother Eve ate in paradise!" Our curiosity was quite on the tiptoe, until he returned with a lemon tinged with an orange colour, possessing the leading qualities of the two fruits, the acidity of the lemon subdued by, and heightening the flavour of the orange. This produced the following jocularity.
Hambly "Why, Signor Padrè, this could not have been the Forbidden Fruit, for it was an apple, and not a sweet lemon, which our great grandmother Eve ate!"
Padrè "Och, Signor Capitain, that is only your erroneous version of the affair. I assure you this was the actual Forbidden Fruit!"
Hambly "But Signor Padrè, although Adam was at that time, what we should call, a jolly old man, he was but a young gardener and never thought of engrafting a fruit for he had aplenty!"
Padrè "Never heed that Signor Capitain. I can assure you this was actually The Forbidden Fruit which our great grandmother ate! Depend on it, I am correct!!"
Accordingly each retained their own opinion.
19th December
We marched to Espinhel [maybe in Agueda]. We had to pass over the summit of the Estrella Mountains, which run diagonally across the western part of the peninsula of Portugal, and are very lofty. The road was cut on the side of the summit for the chief party of our route, in a strong clay sodden with wet, which drew the soles off from many of the soldiers shoes. The baggage animals had the greatest difficulty to get on. On our right hand the precipices were quite appalling to look into, and a large stone thrown down made a noise equal to the report of a very large cannon. The wind raged tremendously and frequently blew the soldiers down before they could draw their feet out of the stiff clay to steady themselves. I was riding in rear of the detachment, to enable the men to pick the best path, on the left of the road, when a furious gust of wind blew my pony and self fairly off our balance and laid us on to the clay bank, or slope of the summit where we both left as perfect an impression of our forms as ever intaglio left on the finest wax. This town is marked in some maps as of consequence , but I cannot say more for it than most others we have passed. It had shared amply of the devastation of war, in every part. I find in my letter one very moving remark relative to this place, to wit, "the mattress we had to lay on the floor for a bed swarmed with flea!"
20th December - Sunday
A halt. Our billet was a miserable and very dirty abode, although from the size of the house it had no doubt been formerly a good residence. There was no fire place in our room and the rain drove freely in at the windows. After breakfast I drew my great-coat over my shoulders, and read the full morning service. Subsequently, I made further progress in my letter for England, when and opportunity should offer for sending it. But truly it was not an easy task to draw my thoughts together with the buzz and clatter in the market just below. Very many women and some few men from the scattered houses in the surrounding district had come to the Church for Matins, which being over they adjourned to their merchandise in the Prasso, or market place where there were exhibited for sale salt, onions, garlic, potatoes, barley, wheat, maize, leather, chestnuts, wine, haberdashery, rosaries, beads, crucifixes, bread, pork, salt fish, etc, etc, etc. All of which were produced in such a dirty manner that required the relish of the natives or the appetite of a marching soldier to partake of them.
21st December
To Miranda de Corvo. The day was fine, the march short, and we all enjoyed our walk for here we began to descend the mountains. We found tolerably good quarters but our patron, or host, stole from us half a Dutch chase, which proved a very great loss subsequently, when we had only Pan Metto, or bread made of Indian Corn, to eat.
The town is delightfully situated on the banks of a rapid mountain stream, flowing from the snow melted on the summits by the meridian sun. Over which are two bridges, at one of which 25 pisans most gallantly defended the town against 320 french soldiers, who attempted to ransack this retired spot. On a considerable eminence beside the town stands the handsome church, certainly not a very ancient edifice, but which well repaid our exertions in ascending to it. We found it unusually clean and light. The first bore proof of its recent erection and the second resulted from there being no painted glass in the large windows. WE were about to descent but the approach of a small procession excited our curiosity. It proved to be the funeral of an infant three months old, which died that morning. Four young girls in white, bedecked with ribbons and flowers bore a tray which oft times conveyed bread to the oven, in which was the little corpse covered, excepting the face, with a white linen cloth, and likewise decked with rose coloured ribbons and flowers. The girls were evidently pleased with their finery and there were a few female followers, and all were very cheerful. Not a mourner was there to be seen! They rested at a certain place in the church, the Priest came, the lighted a candle, and the large crucifix were placed beside him, for a minute he muttered something to himself, and retired. While the girls were stripping the ribbons from the bread tray, the old sexton, by means of a strong iron inserted to a sort of keyhole, raised a ponderous wooden plank, then descending about three feet, scratched, with his large broad hoe, for the use of the spade is not known in this country, a cavity, not half a yard deep, into which the little corpse, covered with a white frock, was thrown, without any care or trouble, as to its exact position. He then scraped in a sufficiency of each to cover it, and with the butt of his heavy hoe, rammed it closely down, breaking every bone in the little body! He then levelled the earth, and replaced the plank, when all parties walked away. I believe I did not conceal the horror and disgust with which I quitted the place! But if, perchance, any of the natives noticed my expression, they of course only pitied the fastidiosity of a heretic.
22nd December
Marched to St.Miguel do Payares, a miserable hole. But I will not fail to recount the civility of our worthy patron, the Padrè, who felt very proud of being the same age, as Good King George of England as he expressed himself.
23rd December
Crossed the river Alva, a branch of the Mondego, a very rapid stream, confined on each side by perpendicular rocks. The stone bridge is a noble structure of three large arches, the piers rising from the vast chasm below have a very imposing effect and prove that the architect must have been a master of the art. The French in their retreat left a rear guard of more than a thousand men to defend the approach to the bridge, while their engineers were occupied in blowing up the centre arch. This guard then endeavoured to join the army by another route, but not being able to find another passage over the Alva, were obliged to return to this bridge and endeavour to form a passage over the break by cutting down some large pines growing near. On the second day of their laborious task, they were attacked by the British and Spanish advanced guard. They fought with the desperation of men without hope of succour, and very few survived to lay down their arms. The pines which these poor fellows had felled greatly accelerated the work of our engineers, and when we passed over we found them well tracked by the artillery and cavalry of the combined army.
While crossing Hambly and I duly attended to the injunction of our late kind host, good Padrè George, as we dubbed him, and took especial notice of a good square house three stories high, standing within half musket shot of the bridge, and between that and a road beside the river, and which bore evident confirmation of the following circumstances related by the Padrè. The late owner, actuated by an ill-directed patriotic zeal, barricaded the lower parts, and from above, kept up a deadly fire on the party employed in blowing up the centre arch of the bridge. Exasperated by such temerity, some of the French soldiers showed a daring front, as if they were about to storm the little citadel, in meantime, another party stole round to the rear of the house, and by unroofing a lower building gained an entrance. They took their prisoner on their route, and then proved themselves true Frenchmen by having recourse to the instinct of the tiger and the monkey, as assigned to them by their countryman Voltaire: they deprived their hapless victim of his ears, his nose, his lips, his eyelids, scooped out his eyes, and left him by the road side in this agonizing state, till death came to his relief.
We were this day joined by two more brother Officers. When passing a solitary and deserted hut, Lieutenant Kinder noticed some fragments of clothing, which looked very fresh, and induced him to search around when he discovered, in the ditch of an adjoining field, the naked corpse of an Englishman. This was too strong a lesson to be lost. We therefore made our men go and look at the remains of the murdered man and in strong terms pointed out the fate they must expect if they left their ranks, and turned marauders. This had a very good effect for the rest of our march.
We took up our quarters in Sabiers [Sarzedo ?] and St.Martineo.
24th December
We marched for Galizes, but as that place was occupied as an hospital station, we were halted at Vinda do Valle. These short marches were extremely irksome, for all of us were anxious to join the Regiment.
This village of the valley is a miserable dirty hole, with only one large house and this standing on a parapet, above the muddy road. It was occupied by the second son of a Fidalgo, and the junior branches of the family, living in celibacy, sloth, pride and dirt! Four of us were quartered on this house, and a few of the inhabitants peeped in at us through the inner door of our large apartment, the entrance hall, while we were at dinner, but sought no intercourse. So we followed our usual habit and at ten at night crept into our blankets. But at eleven o'clock we were awakened from our sound sleep by the loud peels from the organ in the chapel attached to the mansion, which reminded us that it was Christmas Eve, and that, beyond a doubt, High Mass was about to be performed.
The faded grandeur of bygone days, with the pride and dirt of the present, made me unwilling to leave my warm, though humble bed, on the floor. In truth, I found the effects of my late severe illness pressing me solely. And I could not muster resolution to encounter the chill of so cold a night. To sleep in such a hubbub was impracticable! But I offered up my silent raisons with all the zeal and ability I could muster, until two o'clock in the morning, when my companions returned to their beds, and told me a strange tale of the mummery they had witnessed. "A prostrate figure of the Virgin, her supposed groans sounded by the organ. A figure of a child in swaddling clothes drawn from beneath her vest!" I was extremely sceptical of the account of my volatile companion Hambly, and should have considered it as one of his romances, but the indignation and disgust of the other two, especially De Lacey, who was far from joking on topics of religion, and the strong assurances of both of them, obliged me to believe all they told me of this preposterous. No! I will leave an hiatus and not suffer my feelings to prompt my pen!
I felt afterwards great regret that I had lost an opportunity which may never again offer.
25 December
A short march to Vaille do Poco, or the "little village: where four of us were billeting in a convent, and apartments of a miserable description were assigned to us in a back yard, to remove us, we imagined , as far as possible from the nuns. We were admitted into the chapel during the afternoon service. The nuns were in the organ gallery, screened by a thick trellis, or lattice, so that we could only perceive their sparkling eyes peering down upon us. Their singing was very delightful, some of them had most melodious voices. One of our party declared that they sang like nightingales! Not quite so, replied another, for the nightingale sings only during incubation of its mate! After the service we were informed that one of the sisters was an Irish lady, and would be happy to speak with any one Irish Officer. Lieutenant Clarke accepted the invitation, but was greatly chagrined that he was not able to see the fair incognita, who was ensconced in a dark closet, with a small latticed window. She, however, told him of her name and family, and that she was placed there by her parents twenty years ago. From this and the sound of her voice, Clarke inferred that the bloom of the peach had long since faded.
26th December
We were glad to take our quarters at Tordsillas amongst a brigade of British Artillary. This cheered our way worn spirits, for we now felt assured that we had at length reached the cantonments of the Grand Army.
27 December - Sunday
We expected to halt at Lea, but found it occupied by the 42nd Regiment, and invalids. We were obliged to leave a Corporal and four men sick here. We received a fresh route, and proceeded to Pinhancos [Pinhanços].
28th December
To Ville do Cortez. This was a good march.
29th December
March for Celonico, but before we reached it, we were again jostled, and ordered off to the small village of Espinhas, a poverty stricken spot. In the afternoon, when visiting Celorico, we were convinced that there was no room for us. Five hundred convalescents had left this morning to join their respective regiments, but there were still very many poor fellows not yet recovered from the hardships of the retreat from Salamanca, and there were six or seven deaths daily.
Celonico is the cleanest and most respectable town we had seen on our long march. On the map it is denoted by the same characteristics as Penhadua, which we passed through from Sobiera to Villa da Venda, but is far superior. It is larger, the streets wide and clean, the houses large, lofty and are plastered over the stone work, and white washed. There are many very good houses in the town.
The Commandant Brevet, Major Cimietra, is the Senior Captain of our Regiment, but he showed us no more civility than if we had belonged to another corps so that we had nothing to thank him for, but much to talk of, when we joined the Regiment.
Cimietre is a Frenchman by birth and education. When stationed at Gibraltar he married a Jewess, certainly a very fine woman, but of the Amazonian mould! But this must be the fastidiosity of my taste, for I have since been informed that the Major has frequently pronounced her to be "the finest Vomans in all de Vorlds!!"
From Espinhal to this place Espinhas, we have been traversing a comparatively level plain, in what the sailors call a bight, or Bay of the Estrella, from east to west. And we found we were again within the influence of the cold air from the snow clad summits, on which we frequently saw the mists of the evening gather, and the next morning they were deposited in an expanse of snow. While we enjoyed fine clear frosty weather, like what in England, precedes a sharp winter. From hence to the Regiment we have only four days march. The Moorish walls and Citadel of Francosa attracted our especial notice, their striking effect when approaching them is bold and interesting.
At Mocevia we also found the remains of a Moorish castle, situate to the westward of the village on a regular cone of rock, with a fosse around it thirty or forty feet deep. Before the use of gun powder this must have been a very inaccessible fortress. The only approach is by a very narrow causeway on the eastern side. It is a circular building, of no great extent, for the rocky cone would not admit of it. A small portion of the walls, westward, is some eighteen feet high, but the rest are not above four or five. All constructed of blocks of stone of various lengths, from 4 to 10 feet in length, and less than 3 feet square. I was silently contemplating these walls, and wondering how such huge masses of stone could have been so regularly placed, when I was roused by a cry for help from my chum Hambly.
Bonaparte used to say there was but one step from the sublime to the ridiculous, and thus it was with me. One minute admiring the Herculean labours of the ancients, and the next helping to destroy them! But the fact was, that Hambly with his wanted, monkey like restlessness, finding a block of stone loose on the north wall, and endeavoured to push it over, to create an echo. It required however, more power than even his great muscular strength could supply, but he had got it to such an equipoise that when I turned round, there appeared a much greater chance of the stone rolling on to him than into the fosse. With this impression I rushed to his assistance, and we tumbled the large block down the almost perpendicular rock, thereby causing a great hubbub, for the echo was tremendous, quite appalling! The villagers rushed from their dwellings in amazement, as if they had actually experienced an earthquake, and, on our return to our quarters, ran away from us as if we had been demons of another world.
I have often reflected upon this event, and greatly regretted this school boy like propensity for mischief which thus assisted the demolition of this time stricken edifice. Never the less the circumstances afforded me some very instructive information. On close inspection, I found that no mortar had been used in the construction of this castle. The external and internal face of each block of stone was well wrought, but the upper and under surface, and the ends, were left rough, as when they were brought from the quarry. And the irregularities of each were embedded, most ingeniously, in the adjacent, the recumbent, and the super-incumbent block, like teeth. We were very desirous to learn the history, or any tradition relating to this interesting relic of antiquity, but the natives, as I have before stated, shunned us, and would not enter into any converse. Not that they were angry at what we had done, but because we had effected that which they imagined no human beings could accomplish! For their inveterate indolence, would never have allowed them to make use of their muscular powers in like manner.
Monday - 4th January 1813
This day we had the satisfaction of joining the Regiment, about an hour after they had marched into the town of Meda, and taken up fresh cantonments.
Officers and man were so fully occupied making good their new billet, that few of them were aware of our arrival, and we waited some little time before the Adjutant came to us, who, to my surprise and delight, proved to be my very particular friend Lieutenant Close who left us eighteen months before at Danbury Barracks, near Chelmsford. He gave me a most cordial welcome, delivered my animals and baggage to his own batman, and when I enquired for my billet, told me to wait until he had apportioned off the men of our Detachment to the different Companies. This duty performed Close gave me another hearty shake of the hand, and taking my arm, said, "Come my old boy, I will show you your billet, you are my prisoner. I told the Quarter Master's Serjeant I should take you into my billet, for, being now Adjutant I am entitled to a good house by myself but we two can be, I think, very snug and comfortable, and talk about our long walks near Danbury. This town is so small that chief of the Officers are doubled up, and the juniors are three and four in one house. I am sure you will be glad to get away from that rattle Hambly."
I was highly gratified by this unexpected act of friendship, and was, certainly, well pleased to join the companionship of one whose character I so highly esteemed, and whose quiet habits and pursuits were so congenial to my own. Moreover, Close's most intimate friends and acquaintances were Senior Officers and the most gentlemanly members of the corps. I felt very proud of their early calls, and the marked manner in which they welcomed my arrival.
The house on which my friend was billeted had two rooms, about seven feet high, on a level with the street. The first was a stable, the other was crammed with empty wine butts and apparatus for making wine, for we had reached the district where Port wine is made, and were not far from the banks of the Douro. Some rudely formed stone steps, between theses two doors, led to the habitable part of the house. Over the stable was the kitchen, with a fireplace, where the family resided during the winter, and which served them "for bedroom, parlour and all." Our apartments were over the wine store. The first room had one window, about three feet wide, and three and a half high, and had shutters to it. There were two doors opposite. One led to steps into a small garden behind the house, the other into an inner room without any window in which was a stump bedstead and a straw palliasse. This, a large chest, and small round table, in the front room, was the only furniture. The walls of these apartments were plastered, but there was no ceiling, and as the pantiles were not pointed with mortar, we could, when in bed, study astronomy by watching the transit of the stars. The walls were built with slabs of micarock, loosely put together with a scanty proportion of mortar. These particulars give a fair description of Portuguese houses of the third class. There were in this town four of a better description. That of the Capitain Mayor, or May-yor, the Sheriffe of the district, was a good, and comfortable house, the walls plastered and white washed outside as well as within. It was three storeys high, the lower, as usual, was the stable, from which a wide and good stone staircase led to the dwellings. The rooms were large and lofty, had good ceilings, and glass windows opening like doors to small iron balconies. Here the Commanding Officer was quartered. And the second Major had as good, at the other side of the town.
The Paymaster's house as of the second class, only two storeys high, and the ceilings were not plastered, and the rooms not so lofty. The stable were detached. It was altogether like a good old fashioned English farmhouse. So likewise was the spacious house appropriated as a hospital. When we reached our billet we heard a great hubbub within, and my friend summonsed his servant Pat Feeley to explain the matter, who replied with true Irish volubility, "Och the devil of an old woman has been quarrelling with me because I would sweep all that out of your rooms," pointing to a heap of rubbish, dust, straw, chips, rags, etc, etc. Sufficient to fill three large barrows, "and now the old baggage is making a blatherumskite about a little piece of dirty wood, which she calls Saint Antonio which I turned out of the niche of the wall of the back room. When I sought the figure out of the rubbish and gave it to her she abused more and more, and asked me if I knew where Saint Antonio was and what he is now doing? Froth not, I, for I niver had the honour of the gentleman's acquaintance! Know then, you vile heretic, said she, that Saint Antonio is now in Lisbon, making shoes for the poor soldiers! Then long life to his honour, said I, and I hope he will send me a right strong pair as a present for the great pains I have taken here to fetch him out of the rest of the rubbish!"
My friends risibility was excited, and he led me into the house. "That fellow, said Close, is always getting into such squabbles, by his jocularity which the natives cannot understand. I had to get him out of one in our last quarters. When passing a cottage he saw a fowl pecking about, and thought to purchase it for my eating. He accordingly accosted a young woman sitting by the door. Phshew! Seniora, no cara venda! You cara venda the galina for the Capitaine? No Senhor, no cara venda por le Capitain! Then I tell you what, you no cara vend the galina for the Capitain, me fetch the Spring guarda for the romper you (I will fetch the gun to shoot you) Enough of this jargon was understood to frighten the girl, who alarmed all the natives.
Major White was in command of the Regiment, and the little imp was, according to his wanted custom, at variance with most of his brother Officers, but most particularly with the seniors, who by their standing could venture to show a front against his capricious and tyrannical rule, especially our Senior Captain Brevet Major Thwaites, who was supported by Officers of every grade, in his undisguised opposition. Under these circumstances, the arrival of a fresh batch of Officers was a most happy event to the little Commandant, who invited all the juniors, whom he had known at Weedon and Danbury Barracks, to dine with him. I would more willingly have dined with my kind friend, but he urged me to accept the Major's invitation, fearful that my refusal might renew the enmity Major White evinced towards me in England. We certainly partook of a much more comfortable meal than we had had for a long time, and did ample justice to the soup and bouille etc. Also to the wine, which was good, far superior to any we had been able to procure on the march. We were all much pleased with our entertainment, and our host was pleased with our company. He played his antic tricks, and was as merry as the youngest of the party. Regardless of the Major's well known love of patronising , I frankly admit that his reception of us was truly hospitable. We found here English newspapers to the 22nd December speculating on the supposition that the Army would take the field by the 1st of March. Also, announcing the appointment of Colonel Hutchinson as Brigadier of this Army. He, however, obtained the post of Lieutenant Governor of Malta. The next day Close and I dined with our worthy Paymaster W.Hughes, a kind warm hearted old gentleman of the old school, generous almost to a fault, his heart and purse were ever open to those whom he esteemed as friends. The following day we two dined with our Second Major, Lieutenant Colonel, now Major General Sir Jas Wilson K.C.B., a man of education, and the perfect gentleman, a frank, open hearted hard fighting soldier, who had been through all the Peninsula campaign, and frequently mentioned in Lord Wellington's despatches. Particularly when he gallantly stormed a formidable hom work, and then turned the guns on the curtain of the strong fortress, by which he greatly assisted the progress of the storming party which carried the breach.
There was nothing homogenous in our two Majors. White was not over burdened with courage, was always glad to avail himself of any excuse for returning to England, was detested by the soldiers, for he was always annoying them with drills and buff stick minutiae. Wilson was brave without rashness, always with the regiment, even with open wounds, and beloved by everyone, sparing the men where ever he could.
As he could not act with Major White, he did not interfere about the management of the regiment. He never appeared at parade, but might be seen in the fields, in a gray great coat and round hat, with a small whip in his hand, attended by half a dozen dogs, especially his two favourite greyhounds. In figure and appearance Colonel Wilson was very much like Lord Wellington. We also dined with Close's particular old friend Lieutenant Duke, a good worthy fellow and sturdy old soldier.
I could not consent to live on my friend's hospitality and therefore told him frankly that all my money was expended. He jocosely replied very likely, for I dare say all you chaps who joined the other ay could not muster six dollars amongst the whole. You were paid two months in advance, and have been more than three living on it. The pay of the Army is six months in arrear, so that it will be a long time before you can draw any but make yourself easy, I will manage that matter for you before long. I cannot offer to lend you money, for having so recently taken the Adjutancy the purchase of my horse and accoutrements has emptied my pockets. In a few days my friend brought me twenty dollars, which, at his request the good old Paymaster had advanced on account.
Major White finding his host and family very obliging, was desirous to give them an entertainment, and to please the two daughters, each about 20 years of age, invited all the Officers, with whom he was not at variance, to a ball, and had the band in attendance. It was rather a strange sight to see so many men dancing together but every one seemed determined to be pleased, and to keep the affair up with spirit. We led our partners most politely to their seats, or promenaded with them in due etiquette of an English ballroom. My partner was Miss Bell, a huge broad shouldered Captain of the Grenadiers. The whole went off remarkably well, to the great delight and gratification of the Capitain Mayor, his wife and daughters. The young ladies joined us and were much charmed with the animation and sociability of our country dance. And no wonder, for their country dance is the most stupid monotonous concern imaginable. Only one person stands up and jumps from side to side, within the space of a cabbage leaf, to the thump py tum thump, thump py tum thump, of a rudely constructed lozenge shaped tambourine, as long as their muscular strength will last. The excellency of the dance consisting in its tiresome durability.
I did not ask either of the nymphs to dance with me, for I did not in the least feel romantically inclined, in fact the hue of their neither garments was quite anti sentimental. Any one might imagine the damsels had worn them without washing ever since they had entered their teens. Their black silk gowns were full and handsome, but went badly on the sides, showing most inopportunity that the young ladies did "not" wear "white" petticoats.
Our billet was altogether certainly a good one for this place, but our front room was very cold and decidedly a temple for the mind. There was a currant from front to rear, from the floor to the roof, from the openings between the tiles to the apertures in the floor, the boards of which, if ever united, had long been parted, so that in very many places we could pass our fingers or even hand through into the winestore beneath.
My friend employed one of our soldiers, a bricklayer by trade, to make a fireplace at the corner. He established props below, to support the floor, carrying the chimney through the roof in a workmanlike manner to the utter astonishment of our landlord, and to our very great comfort. Close's time was very fully engaged with his official duties, for Major White had established drills twice a day, at which every non-commissioned Officer and private off duty was obliged to be present. This made the Adjutants day very onerous, and the more so that the measure was excessively annoying to veterans who had for more than six years been fighting for their King and Country. Their indignation at being sent to drill like raw recruits bordered very hard an open mutin