Vol 2 of Peninsular Journal of Charles Crowe
 of Coddenham, Suffolk: Soldier 1785-1854.

The following is Volume 2 of the journal of Charles Crowe covering his time in the Peninsular War 1812-1814  (click here for Vol 1).  Volume 2 had been missing for the last 20 years but recently turned up in the collection of the Inniskillings Museum.  It has now been reunited with Volume 1 and I would like to express my grateful thanks to the Inniskillings Museum who have been exceedingly helpful in this matter. 

Volume 2 reads as follows:

August 15th 1813. Sunday. This morning at 5.o.clock, I started, with bag and baggage, scrip and scrippage. As I rode along, I was amused by observing the effects of the Sun on the mist in the vallies between the mountains. I could but remark, how absolute was his power, where ever his rays penetrated. I could almost, have found arguments for the Hindoos, in their worship of this grand luminary. But reflection hinted that even His power, however potent, was not absolute; since He, himself, is subject to laws! Then, "Plato thou reasonest well! For there is a Power, above, and that all nature cries aloud through all her works!!!

Then how thankful ought the Christian to be, for having been trained in that religion, which offers him an unerring path to the protection of "That Divine Power"!!! "Lord what is man that Thou art mindful of him; or the son of man that Thou so regardest him?" As these reflections were not inappropriate to the day, I encouraged them: And my meditations were greatly assisted by the numerous dead bodies along the road.

"When Nature's beauties spread beneath the eye,

And all above the worlds blue canopy,

When reason's self doth elevate the mind,

How good, how virtuous, feels the heart inclined!

A serjeant of the 66th Regt joined us; and seemed as well pleased with company as we were. I invited him to keep company, as far as our routes would allow. We passed the Village, from whence we drove the French on the 1st inst and parted at the bridge of San Estevan (Santestaban ?). The roads had been bad; and certainly I was hungry; thus I felt confident, that the distance, in my route, of 3 ½ leagues, was not correct. My servant agreed with me, that it was 5 leagues, or 15 miles. I obtained a good Billet; and like my room the better for being up two flights. As my servant placed the breakfast things on the table, I was astonished at the multitude of flies, which congregated on every fresh article as soon as placed on the table. The hot tea pot only was free. My sugar canister was coated with a black hord: It was equal to one of the plagues in Egypt. In spite of all, I made a good breakfast and walked forth to examine the Town.

The Natives were then going to Church: the curiosity of a traveller induced me likewise. The edifice was lofty and handsome; decorated as most Roman Catholick Churches, with separated shrines, and tawdry dressed figures. I did not think to ascertain the particular day celebrated; but every person had a small basket before them, spread with a clean napkin; on which were a number of cakes and small loaves, or rolls; and three or four wax-tapers burning before each basket. Four priests were hard at work in different ceremonies, at the same time, making such a hubbub, that it was totally impossible for any one of the congregation, to understand what either of them was about. I could not participate in the apparent devotion which I noticed in those around me, who were chiefly females: Disgust, was my predominant feeling; and I retired as quietly as possible; returned to my billet; opened my portmanteau for my prayer book and fervently read the morning service of my own Church which dissipated all my polemical reflections.

On making my second sally I certainly felt more amiable; and meeting the congregation on their return, I was not in the least inclined to quarrel with anything, and certainly not with any person; for I beheld many very fine countenances, and many lovely girls; whose beautiful faces seemed brightened by the conviction of having fulfilled the bounden duty of keeping the Sabbath day holy.

I did not trouble myself to define, whether it was the sparkling of so many black eyes, or whether it was the delight of once more beholding social society; but confess, that I enjoyed the scene to the very utmost.

I found the Town surrounded by a wall of loose constructure about 14 feet high pierced with loop holes for musketry against the Geurrillas: for the French never dreamed of our reaching that secluded spot. And every house near the walls was looped most effectively. A large detached house, south east, of the walls was made a Fortress of no small consequence: every one of its lofty stories had a separate range; nor could any force, but field pieces have silenced it fire. The yards around were protected by a wall ten feet high; and also looped. The two Gateways were protected by chevaux defuse; forming, together as great a defence against the valley, as the house, for a longer range. I imagine, that, after the thrashing the French received from our 7th Division on the 30th ult at Savy (Tavy?), they were convinced it would be futile to stay here.

A serjeant, of our German Hussars, stationed here assured me it was only three leagues to Zizasso, my next stage; and that by starting at 2.pm I should have plenty of time. On leaving San Estevan, I recrossed the Bridge, which I reconnoitered on the st inst and retraced that day's march, along the southern bank of the Bidasoa; hidden, for the most part from our view by blocks of rock; which reflecting the heat of the meridian Sun, rendered our course most intolerably hot: there was not a breath of air to fan our scorched faces. My animals were greatly oppressed by the extreme heat; and the two mules became very restless and irritated. So much so, that I ordered Reynolds, my servant, to keep a hold on the halter of the Baggage mule in front. The young one followed without restraint; but on a sudden she bolted off to the left at full speed over the plain, full half a mile. I pursued as fast as my pony's short legs could carry me, and saw the brute scramble like a cat up an isolated pile of rock some ten feet in height; on the top of which there was not sufficient space for three mules to have stood. On arriving I was utterly astonished how the animal could have ascended so perpendicular a pile, which even with the assistance of hand I should never have attempted! On the other side I fastened my little steed to some stunted plants of broom; and standing on my saddle, with difficulty gained the summit; where my astonishment was increased; I felt quite bewildered; for it was evident that both of us must jump down, hap what will! Thus, I became as desperate about descent, as the mule had been in ascent. I clapped my shoulder to her haunches, and with all my strength shoved her off. She remained where she alighted, trembling from head to foot, as if palsied. I made my looky-leap, where least observed by either animal; for fear of having another hot pursuit. On my way back I bitterly regretted my officious folly which let to the purchase of this useless and troublesome mule! Yet, angry as I felt, I could not but compassionate the poor beast; which still trembled like an aspen leaf. My servant very reluctantly obeyed my order to mount it, and lead the baggage mule.

Conversing about the mule's sudden freak Reynolds said he had no doubt but that the animal had been attacked by a Crab-fly; which prefers mules to any other beast; and their bite is so very sharp, that a mule becomes distracted. If three or four of these flies get among the baggage on the line of march they will throw the whole into confusion. We always find them in swampy places or near water, flying low. They are twice the size of a common bug, and flat; shaped like a sea-crab; have very many legs with which they run very quickly forward, back, or sideways; and therefore we call them Crabflies. It is very difficult to catch them, even if an animal is standing still. This little piece of natural history excited my curiosity; and I afterwards found by personal observation that the account was correct: for having caught one, I could not hold it; and had some trouble to crush it on the ground.

My great exertion threw me into a profuse perspiration. I had not a dry thread about me: but the extreme heat of the road soon dried everything and left a painful burning heat, pervading every part of me, as if I were with in the focus of an immense burning-glass, or lens!

It is impossible to describe my agonizing sufferings at this juncture!! Had my pony felt the increase of weight as I did myself, he must have fallen under it. The oppression on my head and shoulders made me think of the representation of Atlas bearing the whole heavens! Subsequently, I learned, that all this was decidedly a Coup de Soliel! Which is generally fatal; especially in India. I pulled the oil case covering from my cap, and thew it away. I felt relief from this act; and was endeavouring to recover myself, when my Baggage Mule gave a terrific roar, broke all restraint and ran along the road, until he found a break in the rocky embankment, where he rushed into the Bidasoa and swam to a pile of rock in the middle of the stream gaining a footing thereon, which no animal but a mule could have done. I was fearful of his laying down, and, entangled by his heavy load, of his being drowned.

I did not wait for consideration; but spurred my little steed into the stream, my knees were soon under water, but pony swam with me, until I reached the mule's halter, and he quietly accompanied us back to shore. Thus combined events caused me much future suffering and misery; and I must carry their mark to my grave. In the interim I cannot be too thankful for the preservation not only of my life, but of my eyesight!! The remainder of my Diary abounds, I find, with memoranda of my daily sufferings; which I must endeavour to curtail. Our road after this, became a long and tedious ascent: we questioned some Spanish soldiers, whom we met respecting the distance; but their accounts were incoherent. Relying on the report of the German, we made the best progress we could. But the steep ascent was too much for my little mule; my whole attention was directed to urging her forward or I could have derived much gratification form the grandeur of the scenery. I could only compare ourselves to pismires ascending a molehill. When the road descended we all proceeded tolerably well. I began to ruminate on the events of the day; and thought of the verse in Lob "the heart of man deviseth his ways, but the Lord directeth his steps"! Yesterday I made a firm resolve that I would not travel in the dark! But I was now on a mountain top, the night closing fast around me; and three hours marsh from my destination, according to the report of a Capatrass of a brigade of loaded mules proceeding to the army. About 8.o.clo our road led through a wood; which made night more gloomy and ill accorded with my feelings. I ordered my servant to load his musket. With a tight rein in one hand with loaded pistol, on full cock, in the other, I led our line of march. I did not reach Lizasso (Lizaso ?) till ten o'clock; and should not have obtained a billet, if Captain - the Commandant had not kindly assisted. He put me into a very good house where I found everything remarkably clean; and the inhabitants very obliging. I could not eat any supper; was very thirsty; and made my servant heat some wine. The very worst thing I could take. On inspection of my bed room, I saw that the good hostess had put nice clean white sheets on my bed. But on turning down the clothes, I discovered that it was much to lively a sport for even a way-worn soldier to venture on: a regular cloud of fleas sprang up! I ordered my servant to place my own blankets on the brick floor of the small room, and of my sitting room; some seven feet broad, and may kind Providence forbid, that I may ever pass such an other night as I did here.

August 16th. 

This morning was far advanced ere I could retire to rest. Exhausted nature yielded to the influence of sleep for about two hours; when a provoking fly alighted and tickled my face. I would have raised my arm outside the clothes but my hand felt so excessively heavy, that in the delirium of the fever I fancied it twined to a huge shoulder of mutton, which I could not lift! I lay in this horrible state for a long long time 'till nature was again exhausted; and I slept late. It was past 8.o.cl. when I arose; and found myself excessively ill, almost incapable of  exertion!!

I had to wait the return of Captain D- the Commandant from coursing: the day was so far gone, that I readily accepted the Goodfellow's invitation to dinner.

August 17th.

Started in good time this morning and found the road much improved in the neighbourhood of Pamplona by what the troops had done to them. I met numerous stores going to the Spanish Army, on their rudely constructed cars. I halted for breakfast at an isolated house at Berrioplano, by the road side, and had no objection to ascend two flights of stairs to my room, to gain a fresh current of air. The south window admitted more of the Sun's rays than I could have wished: but the western afforded a good view of Pamplona; distant about half a league. Thee house stood above the road; not a tree within sight; no bank or rock behind; no house within a quarter of a mile; I was in the third story, with a draught through; yet the flies were innumerable! I thought them bad enough at St.Estevan but here they were ten times more numerous. I was obliged to draw my small cloth off the table to cover over the table; but it was difficult to eat or drink without swallowing flies. The Garrison made much noise, with their large guns, while I staid here. The natives were become accustomed to them; and only when the breeze brought a stronger sound, that they exclaimed, Ah! Diable!! As I proceeded on the Grand Carmina Real I met a Dragoon Officer and his baggage. He asked me many questions about the road, and the halting places. I questioned him also, and learned that Harry Franklin, our Assistant Surgeon was at the next Depot. This was most welcome news, and I was impatient till I could take my good friend by the hand. Irivizun is a good town protected by walls of some importance. On arriving I reported myself to the Commandant, Captain Gun of the 91st Regiment and obtained my Ration Return. This was a "good shot" and I quickly made for Franklin's quarters. He was surprised and delighted to see me. But I found him quite in low spirits for want of society; and impatient to rejoin his regiment. However, a conversation about old friends soon roused him: and I felt convinced that we rendered much good to each other.

August 18th.

My good friend would not allow me to depart until I had partaken of his hospitality breakfast. I left the Grand Carmina; and the road I took proving very tolerable, I arrived at Lacunza in good time; and Alsasua about 6pm, whence, by the assistance of a private of 5th Dragoon Guards, I obtained a very comfortable billet, at an old surgeon's. The Dragoon was tipsy; and become so very officious that I was obliged to give him to understand I stood in no further need of his kind services.

August 19th.

Reached Salvatierra about 10.a.m: from its external appearance, as we passed on the 22nd June, I expected to have found a place of some importance: but to my surprise, only three parallel streets surrounded by an old and defective wall. It is absurd to note it in the maps as a fortified town for Guirillas would laugh at it. Two hours from hence brought me in sight of Vitoria: but the road was so circuitous, that I did not arrive till dark.

When searching for the Commandant's I fortunately met with my old friend Lieutenant Duke of the 48th, who took me to his own quarters, and procured me a bed on the floor of his room. It being too late to procure a billet, the greater part of this day was occupied in getting rid of my charge; and thereby contributing to the comforts of the afflicted. The performance of this duty introduced me to so many brave fellows suffering severely from "the fate of War"! that my military ardour was very far from "Fever heat!" in truth my spirit was much below par!! That I was glad to divert my mind by saking for my own billet: which, by the assistance of my two brother offices, Pollock and Radcliffe, I made good at No.18 Coreria Street; up two flights of stairs; a large and airy room facing S.W. with a glass door into a balcony. But my friends kindly insisted on my joining their mess, at Pollock's quarters. Wearied with the excitement of feelings during the day, and the pain in my head, which was become very acute, but of which I had no time through the day to dwell on, I went early in the evening to my own billet. Not expecting me so soon, my servant was absent, with the key of my apartment: so I patiently seated myself on the stairs till he should return. Major Fitzgerald of the 82nd Regiment occupying the opposite apartment, on seeing me, insisted on my going into his room. The Major was wounded in a similar manner as Captain Butler of ours. A ball had perforated both cheeks; knocked out all his teeth; and cut his tongue so severely, that it was difficult to understand what he was saying. He seemed to be quite the polished Irish Gentleman. And soon gave me to understand, in a most courteous way, his anxiety to have the house to himself. In as much, that in the balcony beyond my room, was a certain convenience, highly requisite for an invalid, to which he was obliged to resort.

August 21st. 

Desired of contributing to the comforts people, when I can, I obtained another billet; and left the Major full enjoyment of the balcony. My new quarters were in the Street Herreria, near my two chums. The accommodation was but indifferent: and the inhabitants very reluctant to admit me, although my billet was regularly issued from the Alcalda's office. I did not wonder at this; for since June 21st they had never been free from sick or wounded Officers. Certes! We are fighting for their freedom; and therefore have a claim for accommodation, but I am equally certain that John Bull would not relish foreigners at fice quarters.

August 22nd. 

I find here the Sabbath is kept in a Catholic, i.e. Roman Catholic manner. It is considered more a day of rest and recreation than for Divine Worship! All customs in extremes are bad and so is this! Many a fusty old Saint, on his, or her day, had more strict observance and prayer, than is ever thought of on That day, which Holy Writ hath ordered to be kept Holy!! I noticed that two young girls in the opposite house, were dressed in five different garbs, during the day! In the crowded afternoon Mall we met many bare and bald headed, fat priests, monks or friars, with lovely girls of gentlewomanly appearance, holding reluctantly on their arms.

August 23rd to 26th. 

I had fully resolved to have returned to my Regiment; but the excessive pain in my head and eyes which I have endured all the week obliged me to conform to the advice of my friend Harry Franklin and to apply for medical advice.

August 28th.

Our poor brother officer Lieutenant Phillip Gordon died this day; after most severe suffering from his wound received 21st June, by a musket ball; which broke the thigh so high up, that amputation at the hip joint, was the only expedient. This arduous operation required greater skill than could be found in a new, and hastily formed hospital station: and his case was too far gone for such skill did arrive. Gordon was the Senior Lieutenant of our Three Battalions; had entered the Peninsular with the 3rd Battalion in 1808: and consequently had seen much service. He was a large raw boned Scotchman; and his national reserve never suffered him to drop a hint as to what had been his career. He must have been full fifty years of age: and consequently either risen from the ranks, or entered the army late in life. He was on good terms with everyone: but there was no glimpse of the Gentleman in his appearance or conversation. He lived the hard life of a soldier; had his own tent; and never indulged in anything beyond his bar rations. So that poor Phil Gordon always had spare dollars to cash a Bill on England for any Officer who wanted to raise "The Wind"! And this parsimony was "The ruling passion e'en'n death" for the Staff Surgeon who attended him, thrice urged us to request Gordon to live more generously.

August 29th.

We buried poor Gordon this day in a most respectable manner. We three, with Crape on our arms and swords, followed as Chief Mourners; accompanied by all Officers of the Division who were able to attend. The coffin was covered with black cloth, studded with brass nails. The ceremony attracted a vast concourse of inhabitants; who behaved with the utmost decorum, and evidently were much impressed by the solemnity of the 'Funeral Service' although they did not comprehend a single word.

An Assistant Staff Surgeon bled me this morning freely; which gave me some relief. And in the evening I dined with my old friend Duke.

August 30th. 

A large blister was applied to the back of my neck; which also afforded relief. 

August 31st

We had heard of an assault on St Sebastian, its failure, and that many Portuguese, of whom the storming party mainly consisted, were taken prisoners. This day Pollock received a letter from Weir, stating that Jack Harding, a Serjeant, and twelve men had marched to the second attack of St. Sebastian, being our quota of the number required from our Division by a letter from the Adjutant General to General Cole in which he states "by Lord Wellington's order, that 100 British, and 50 Portuguese are wanted to set an example to a Column of attack, in a point of great moment: but which only requires conduct to insure success!" This remarkable Order spoke His Lordship's chagrin at the failure of the first assault: and put every one concerned on their high mettle.

Harding was acting as Adjutant and therefore decidedly off the Roaster: but finding that the turn of duty came to his name, he was resolved to take it, regardless of our Colonel's remonstrance, and even solicitations. Had I been with the regiment, and Harding not taken the perilous duty, it would have fallen on me. General Sir Lowry Cole was excessively pleased that "A Forlorn Hope," should be called from His Division in such a manner. He inspected the marching off of the party: and shaking every Officer by the hand, desired them to remember the 4th Division!! The Light, and 1sts Divisions furnished the same complement.

September 2nd.

Late this evening intelligence arrived of the taking of San Sabastián, in the afternoon of the 31st ult. The bells began to jangle immediately in the most absurd and discordant manner; resembling the Alarm of Fire in an English village. But yet, purchance the Spanish would say with the Portuguese, that "the English have fine bells, but know not how to ring them!" Lights were exhibited at every house; and bon fires on every street; with men, women, and children dancing to the monotonous beating of lozenge shaped tamborines covered on both sides; and singing their loyal airs; which want cadence; as much as their music, and variety as much as their dance! The step was 1:2:3.4 - 4:3:2:1 incessantly on the same spot. And the beat on the tamborine corresponded with tum pa-tum tum.

I had frequently listened to the sound of the Guitar when passing the streets; and from what I heard concluded all performances as noviciates. A wounded English Officer, a very handsome and gentlemanly fellow although a decided coxcomb, had a good quarter in the lower part of the plaza near the mall. Frequently in an evening he would stand in either balcony to his windows, a monkey on one side, and a parrot on the other, touching his guitar in a scientific style to the Spanish, English, Scotch and Irish, airs which he sang admirably. While the assembled crowd below, priests and peasants, listened with wonder and delight.

I could not have imagined that a native like the Spanish, which, not long ago, asserted its due preponderance in the affairs of Europe, and was famed for her Moorish wars, her riches, her colonies, her Armada, should be so devoid of the general refinements of society.

It requires, apparently, some great excitement like the present, to rouse their innate indolence to action. 

Their architecture and mechanics prove the same. The more modern part of this city, Los Arquillas, and the Grand Praça, are substantial, light, and uniform: but if you scrutinize the rooms in these buildings you will scarcely find a ceiling or floor that is parallel, a window or door square to its due proportions. I noticed a doorway of nine feet by four, that had full three inches difference between one side and the other, the shape of the ceiling and the floor agreed admirably.

September 3rd.

The Governor has received intelligence of the gallant conduct of the Spaniards near the mouth of the Bidasao on the 31st ult. and has ordered Bull baiting and illuminations for four nights. Immense placards at the corner of every street blazoned forth the bravery of the Spanish soldiery. All this, we imagined, was instigated by the Spanish General, Alava; who is Lord of all the lands around. He loses no opportunity of rousing the lithargickness of his countrymen. He discarded his own brother for his partiality to the French! Could this unhappy country find two or three such real patriots in very district, she might soon reassume her former greatness! And Phoenix-like spring from her own ashes.

We, likewise, received particulars of the taking of San Sabastián; and had to mourn the loss of our highly esteemed friend Harding; of Kenyon the Volunteer, the adopted pet of my chum and self. Ten days after his death his commission as ensign was received! Had this arrived sooner he would have been saved!! Pollock felt as a brother the loss of his messmate Harding!! Another volunteer, who had been very recently attached to our regiment, was also killed. He had been one of the Senior Lieutenants in the Marines. He had been cashiered by an Order from the Admiralty for having been a second in a fatal duel at Portsmouth. Two very young officers, much attached to each other were drawn into an intrigue by an insidious and designing woman, the wife of an officer afloat. She so artfully cajoled the two youths, that each fancied himself the exclusively favoured paramour. One of them chanced to speak slightingly of the lady as she passed and distantly bowed to the two younkers. An altercation ensued; and a duel resulted, and the volunteer's friend was shot dead. Of our little devoted band, that is, poor Jack Harding, one Serjeant, 12 men, and two volunteers, only four survived!! Half way to the breach Jack was struck on the thigh by a grape shot. When he fell, his whole party halted, but Jack raised himself on his hands, and called out, Serjeant Achison what are you about, go forward, and do your duty! Look to the Castle on your Buttons, and prove yourself an Enniskillener!! This was like an electric shock, the Serjeant put his cap on his halberd, waving it, and shouting, gained the breach, and with three men survived to tell the sad history. The Colonel made him a Colour Serjeant for his brave conduct: but being of a volatile disposition he soon afterwards lost his colours.

September 4th

I felt better this day: and in the evening made out with my friends Pollock and Vandermeulan of 48th. We traversed part of the battle field of June 21st "faught our battle o'er again!" and felt confirmed in our former opinions, that we were not assisted by our Cavalry as we ought to have been.

September 5th 

Dined with my worthy friend Duke and afterwards walked with him to examine the cannons taken June 21st collected beyond the city; beside the road to Tolosa: and a most gratifying sight it was, such a park of artillery was never before taken from an enemy!

123 guns - of numerous calibre

33 howitzers - large and new.

3 mortars of small size

159 I counted, but we were informed that very many had been sent away. Some of the largest were made in 1703 by Charles 3rd. Many of the field pieces were of French manufacture during the Republic; with Liberte et Egalite on their muzzles. A few were marked Ferdinando 7th. And some few A.N. The remainder were Carlos 4th. Excepting one of great length and octagon shape, with an Eschutcheon of Five Stars. We could not decipher the motto. Unquestionably it was a great curiosity. The calibre not more than six pounds although its length is equal to the Egyptian Gun in St.James' Park. There was a due proportion of ammunition wagons to the above; with a great number of various descriptions; and the remains of 17 coaches; the whole occupying an immense space of ground.

September 20th 

Alas! Alas! What a length of time I detoured in this stupid place! Never in my life do I remember to have murdered time, as I have, here! And never was I so tired of myself. The doctor affords me small relief; and nature does as little!! He calls it an intermitting complaint; and knows not what remedy to apply, or would surely try it. Colomel gave me most relief, but he not continue it. I have no books to read, and my head is too heavy for writing. I might say with Shakespeare's Richard 2nd "Time was I wasted time, but now doth Time waste me, for he hath made me his numbering clock"! My bed is my best friend and antidote to the pain I suffer.

A night or two when the paroxysm was less severe I accompanied my companions to the Theatre. By frequent visits, and the aid of a grammier, I think I could soon master the language; for in the drama pure Spanish, genuine Castilian is spoken: which when lisped by a pretty woman is very fascinating. Here are two actresses under whose tuition I think I should prove a very apt scholar. But this would not serve for general intercourse with the pisans. He studied Spanish grammatically, and complained to his Patron, the Priest of Eschalaon Ces! Ces! Replied Senhor Padre - you speak pure Castilian, the natives do not comprehend you.

One evening we were fortunate in seeing The Bolero danced in perfection. The hero and heroine, with castanets in each hand, came dancing from opposite sides: surprised and pleased to meet a fellow dancer, they distantly acknowledge their mutual delight, and join in dancing. The hero becomes enamoured, and makes advances. The heroine is prudishly indignant, snaps both her castanets most loudly before his face, and pretends to fell away. He pursues until, satisfied with the sincerity of his passion, the lady allows him to come nearer and more near, when they dance before each other, waving their lifted arms in a most graceful marje.

In fact this dance is a personification of a regular courtship: and the acting so rivetted our attention that we never noticed the very slight adjunction from the orchestra, for in fact the castanets supplied the music; and it was marvellous to note how their few intonations were adapted to the actions.

I cannot admire the Spanish drama. The first act, with two or there persons on the stage is very tedious and uninteresting. The prologue to old plays in England, was delivered by one of the best actors, who adapted "the word to the action and the action to the word"! but here three most inanimate persons hold a monotonous pribble prabble in an under tone, for a long half hour; and weary the auditors, that is, if they can hear, before the play begins. After which, as if to make up for the loss of time, occurrences and incidents are jumbled together contrary to nature; and oft times contradict instead of confirming the plot, which generally is bad. And the moral, of which no play ought to be deficient, is by no means obvious!! Thus the origin and design of the drama are totally lost!! Moreover, the paucity of female characters fails to arouse that attention which makes a play interesting and the consequent want of variety renders a long play extremely irksome.

I am disposed to write as slightingly of the theatre itself: for in the first place it is very indifferently or, insufficiently lighted. And an Englishman must ever feel disgusted by the prompter's box, in the middle of the front of the stage: from whence he rehearses and leads, the whole part of every character in so audible a manner, that the audience must hear him. And at the same time makes no point of secreting himself from observation; although his awning is full three feet broad, and two feet above the stage: but with the head, as well as arms, and even book, extended, beckons forward the next character. The performers do not consider it requisite to be perfect in even their own part; for the prompter tells them every word: consequently, their eyes and attention are fixed on him; and never directed to the audience. And having repeated their part, remain motionless and inattentive to the reply, until beckoned, or called, by the prompter, to rehearse a rejoinder. Thus there is no acting, or treading the boards; which gives animation to every character; and is requisite in all. The leading characters are assigned of course to the best performers; who are generally perfect and fully sustain their parts; but are obliged to act behind a semicircle of subordinates in front of the prompter's box. I have seen the real heroine standing behind in the utmost unconcern and indifference, while her rich rival endeavoured to inveigle the affections of her plighted lover!!

There are but few ladies to be seen in the theatre; the house being so badly lighted, there is no opportunity of displaying charms, or dress. A box or balco for as many of a party as might come, can be exclusively engaged for about three shillings. And such select parties were often to be seen. Watching them to catch the characteristics of the natives, I was much amused frequently, at seeing an elegant young woman light a paper cigar i.e. tobacco scattered on paper, and rolled up, the size and length of a large quill, and after 3 or 4 puffs, presenting it to her brother or favoured swain. In the front of the pit, behind the orchestra are three rows of seats armed off and numbered; called Tunettas, admittance to which is two shillings. They are engaged by those who go purposely to enjoy the play. There are two rows of benches immediately under the Balcos: the admittance to which is about nine pence; corresponding with our two shilling gallery; and are occupied only in by ---- in the other part of the pit all stand. A similar accommodation for women being in front of the upper Balcos. On a fair calculation I should imagine that the utmost of a full house would be thirty pounds.

After the above comments, it will only be justice to mention that I saw, with surprise and delight the performance of the Tragedy of the Wife with two Husbands!! The characters were well cast, and as well supported! The plot good; and the moral plain.

It was a performance altogether worthy the attention of an enlightened audience. 

At the Theatre we frequently selected Lunettas in the third row, if not already occupied; by the centre seat occupied the Mayore of Vitoria; who freely conversed with us; and evinced a decided partiality for our friend Pollock. The Mayore, meeting him one day, exclaimed - Ah! Senor Capitaine I am glad to meet you! For you and your friends must accompany me this evening to the Theatre. I have secured our old seats. You will be much amused; since, according to your description of the English Drama you can never witness the like of this evening's performance. You well know that our Sovereign and his family were cajoled by Bounaparte; and went to Bayonne: where they became prisoners: and King Charles with his son Ferdinand, were compelled to sign their abdication of the Throne of Spain!! All this will be personated; and you with your friends must witness the scene. Agreeable to promise the Mayor called us in good time: we found every part of the house crowded. When the curtain rose, the scene was certainly very striking! At the utmost extents of the stage, on a raised Throne, sat Bounaparte; on his right Talleyrand; and Joseph Bounaparte, afterwards King of Spain. On his left the Queen, wife of King Carlos: next to her, the Prime Minister of Spain, her paramour whom Bounaparte had inveigled into the French interest by dubbing him The Prince of Peace. Beyond these, on either side, sat French Marshals and various functionaries. On the extreme right close to the pit, stood Charles, King of Spain; and his Heir Apparent, Prince Ferdinand. Opposite to them was a table, covered with an awful document detained by a massive inkstand. Beside which stood a youth of about 16 or 18 years of age representing The Infanto, Don Carlos. Bounaparte stated in a long harangue the benefit to his country if the King would abdicate! But Old Carlos was reluctant! Whereupon Talleyrand made a most furious declamation which convinced the pusillanimous King that he had no alternative. He tottered across to the table, a small insignificant old man, amidst the execrations of the audience. And he toddled back with the same accompaniment!!! Bounaparte then ordered Prince Ferdinand to countersign his father's abdication. With an efficient step and gesture drawing a delicate white handkerchief through his fingers the character obeyed; and as he crossed the stage, the yells and execrations of the audience were deafening vociferating every approbious epithet that the Spanish language affords, and that is not scanty, until he approached the table; when Don Carols stepped out and exhorted his brother, with various reasons not to sigh or even touch the accursed document.

Incensed at the youth's heroism Bounaparte rose from his throne; and indignantly exclaimed "What is that child about? Take him back to the nursery!?

While the Infanto was forced away by the attending guards, the yells from the audience were redoubled - Don Carlos! Don Carlos!! Forever!!! He must be our King! Etc.etc.etc The Mayore here addressed us - You may be surprised at all this scene, but it is a faithful representation of what occurred at Bayonne. We do not wish for the return of Old Carlos, his depraved wife, or his nincompoop son Ferdinand! Don Carlos must be our King!! For, until we have some one to rule us with a rod of iron, we shall never be free from anarchy and bloodshed; and Spain cannot regain her due station among the nations of Europe!!

Entering, or retiring from the Theatre, I noted the absence of those disgusting scenes of depravity, attendant in England. The same may be said of the streets. But this non-appearance of vice, is no proof of its non-existence. Here as in Portugal the brothels are licensed by the Priests; and are under their sole control. It is dreadfully painful to reflect on the extent of wickedness practised here, nurtured by the sacred garb of Religion!!

We heard much of the licentiousness of the bald headed Priests, and Hooded Friars, with private families; and of the injured husband and father being kept in awe by the bread of the Anathema of their Church and were very incredulous on the subject. But conviction would force itself on us when we met in the mall, a lovely young woman reluctantly resting her hand on the arm of her father confessor, and marked his disgraceful looks and gestures or rather deportment!!

There are three large Churches in this city; abounding as usual with gaudy pictures and a profusion of gilding. San Miguel, or Saint Michael's, near the Arquillos or Square has a large white figure of The Virgin on the south wall facing the square. Not one of the numerous persons pass this Nostra Senora Blanca! Without crossing themselves and mumbling a prayer; and the men doff their broad hats. The Church stands on a platform of masonry 7 or 8 feet high faced with stone, in which is a box, marked above 'por Amor de Deos.' Into which some few dropped money. But I trust the Love of God! is to be purchased otherwise than by copper vintons!! Within this Church is a group of wooden figures, intended to represent our Saviour and the Apostles, at the last supper table. The whole are on a frame, capable of being carried by handles hanging down by the feet of the table, which exactly resembled the Bier used in England, except being longer and something taller. They are all five feet nothing men, but their big heads would be in better proportion to shoulders seven feet high. Their features are so very grotesque, that we found it difficult to restrain our inclination to laugh! And when we noticed their arms placed on or over the table, in most unnatural attitudes, forming a most absurd dish of giblets, we were obliged to look around on the sacred walls of the edifice to convince ourselves that such a spectacle was intended for a religious purpose!! We were here with eight or ten officers of various regiments; and many jocular remarks were made, no wise tending to sober our countenances. We found that some of these said arms were moveable at the shoulder and the elbow. One of our most facetious companions projected one of them towards the next figure, saying "Come Old Fellow pull that chap by the nose!" But the simple machinery was not adapted to such a movement; and the shoulder joint broke! Frightened at the event, the wag dropped the worm-eaten arm on the table where it severed into atoms!! Instantly all of us were grave as judges, and with hasten step, stalked sedately out of the Church. When every one scampered off to his own quarters. I believe it better for the future, that I leave such subjects to pass unnoticed, since I have so little liberality.

September 26th

Sunday

Agreeable to the Doctor's orders I last night swallowed his copious dose of Calomel; and consequently did not leave my won quarters until dinner time. During this interval I was surprised by an orderly Corporal showing me Garrison Orders, stating that having been reported fit, I was ordered on Depot duty. This annoyed me excessively!! I was as unfit as I had been from the first! Moreover, it was a very plain intimation that my Surgeon thought I was sculking. In the evening Pollock and Radcliffe went to the Theatre; and I returned home.

September 27th 

My chagrin and molestation had augmented by reflection. I was resolved to put a bold face on this matter, and rejoin my regiment; and that if I could not obtain a route, I would desert and return without one. During breakfast my two kind friends sympathized in my wounded feelings; and agreed to accompany me to the regiment although they had not been reported convalescent.

We succeeded to the utmost of our wishes; for Pollock was intimate with the Commandant, Major Bruton of the Fusiliers, a blunt, warm hearted old soldier; who being himself disgusted with Depot duty, laughed heartily at the trick. I was about to play the Staff Officers; although he had signed the Order for me to perform Depot duty. All this was good: but it was not possible for us to start before Wednesday morning.

September 28th

This day was fully occupied in preparing for our march. But I was summonsed to sit on a Court Martial. I showed my route; and desired the Orderly to beat a retreat; as I could not attend. The event pleased me mightily; for it seemed to afford me revenge.

September 29th 

Our baggage started soon after nine o'clock. And we followed at eleven. The day was fine, although the clouds were threatening. The road wound round the mountains in a pleasing manner. We all enjoyed our ride; and reached Salinis about three. Like old soldiers we pursued our first day's march leisurely; and I found myself much fatigued. Our baggage arrived half an hour after; and was just housed, when one of our servants apprehended the man who had stolen Radcliffe's horses from Vitoria. Of course the villain stoutly denied the charge. But fortunately Lt. Col. Rudd of the 77th Regiment with a Serjeant and party were in the town, on their way to Vitoria to attend a Court Martial; of which the Colonel was to be president. He ordered his party to take charge of the culprit. The town of Salinis is barricaded as usual: and at the gate a toll is collected for the repairs of the Carmina Real which passes it. The town is situate half way down a mountain looking delightfully into a fertile valley. (sentence erased) In the Grand Paca or market place a fountain affords and abundant supply of excellent water. The Adjutant of the Brunswick Oels, an acquaintance of Radcliffe's, had overtaken us on the road, and conversed with us some long time. Like my companions, his wounds were not healed but he was likewise impatient to rejoin his regiment. We found on our arrival that he was engaged to dine with the Lt. Col. Rudd. And they joined us afterwards. We found the Adjutant a most entertaining companion; one of those brave heroes who preferring "Death or Victory!" the motto, and war cry of the Corps, to French thraldom, followed their Prince through hosts of  enemies and innumerable dangers to England. He was wounded and taken prisoner in the last encounter with the enemy, and did not reach Heligoland till two months after the Prince arrived in England. Norman, was a small active fellow strongly imbued with "Esprit de Corps"! His animated conversation was a strong contrast to, and compensated for the beastiality of the Lieutenant Colonel, who was drunk when he came, and yet was thirsty, at all events he drank to and with the last. Converse, he could not, all his thoughts and ideas were fixed on wine. It was quite grievous to see a well known brave soldier, and good hearted fellow thus lose himself. Before he became too much inebriated he amused us much by relating that at the Battle of Albuera a cannon ball carried away his valise from behind him, with the skirts of his jacket.

September 30th.

Radcliffe was obliged to return to prosecute the stealer of his horses. Pollock and I proceeded along a most delightful valley; favoured with a lovely day. The peasants houses ranged on each side; at the distance of two, three and four hundred yards from each other: that at every turning of the road, they had the appearance of a long continuous street; and the well cultivated fields looked like one extensive garden. In peaceable times this must be a nucleus of content, industry, and earthly happiness! We passed though Mondragon, a large and good town. On approaching Bergara the road was diversified and interesting; capable of forming, with the river, a very formidable military position. The large Gateway, a handsome stone arch, over the road, that the direction of the different routes inscribed thereon. Under to the arch to Vere: to the left Bilboa; and the right to France. The latter reminded us that we were on the great road to Bayonne; and gave rise to many reflections and remarks; which were arrested by our passing a most admirably planned Block House; commanding the road we had so attentively noticed. On enquiry we learned that the ten thousand French, who retired from Bilboa, resolved to make a stand here and fortified the spot accordingly. I will not say that our troops would not have assailed this post but I can say that many brave fellows would have fallen in the attack. Bergara is a fine well built town; and has not suffered from the calamities of war, which have dilapidated half the Peninsular. At the entrance we noticed a Nunnery in an unfinished state; and made enquiries of the number of Nuns and Order, for which it was intended: but it was very evident that our interrogations gave displeasure. No horses are allowed to pass through the Praça: where stands the Town Hall; where the Gateway was formerly: a low, but handsome and ornamented building. The following Motto is cut on its front.

Oque mueho lo de Alba

Oque poco lo de Ava

Signifying, when there is much sin, or transgression there is little grace, or pardon. 

We found our billet better than usual.

October 1st.

We had a short and pleasant ride to Villa Real: but as we must draw our rations here, we could not advance further. The road passed through this town; and during the six years the French occupied it, they fortified themselves to the utmost of its locality, against the mountaineers. We were informed that no troops were allowed to be stationed here; they were always hurrying to and fro.

October 2nd. 

The weather was unfavourable and prevented our starting at our usual early hour. It cleared up however before we had travelled a league, along the continued delightful valley; where nature was refreshed by the showers, during the night and morning. At Villa Franca, we had to put up with the worst billets we had hitherto experienced,. The Gateway led us to expect a good town, but we found ourselves woefully mistaken! I sat down without the walls, to watch the approach of our baggage, and Pollock soon joined me. An old weather beaten and lame sailor, who had asked us in vain for charity, as we rode in, was passing us in silence, not deigning even a look at those who had disregarded his entreaties. I felt the reproof and gave him somewhat. We asked the particulars of his wounded leg. He said he was wounded when fighting against the English, nine years ago, in the West Indies: he could not stand to work; and charity was his sole dependence. "And a pitiful dependence that is, thought I , for most of these who pass are soldiers, and though their hearts do not want the inclination, their pockets lack the means!! "Thy disabled Veterans, Old England, are provided for, though Thou never hadst Pence!!!

October 3rd.

Sunday

Knowing Tolosa to be the residence of the Paymaster General with the Grand Military Chest, we fully expected to find it a town of some importance; and were mightily chagrined to find only three parallel dirty streets. We obtained salted mackerel and sardines, alias sprats, for dinner.

October 4th.

Its was fortunate that we reached Oinania (Bidania ?) at an early hour; for it was crowded with Artillery and Cavalry and we were sent to a farmhouse across the river as our billet. We were well pleased with our quarters: the description thereof may prove interesting. The house was about 20 yards square; the entrance in the centre. On the right hand was a kitchen some nine feet square; all the rest of the ground floor was used as a stable. In the middle a broad ladder led through the floor above; and the apartment was open to the very roof; excepting small bed rooms, right and left of the Western side, nine feet long and four broad; the intermediate space occupied by two large wooden chests, and a small door to a balcony. The Eastern side was, for the most part, to the weather, hot, or cold. The furniture consisted of a low table, and two broken chairs. The floor was well stored with ears of maize, or Indian corn; which were thrown more in a heap for our accommodation. For this occupation the tenant pays so many Reals, in proportion to the number of Casta?os, or  Chesnut trees. An extensive orchard joins the farmyard; but apples trees form no part of the Covenants. His rent is registered; and for every hundred Reals, he pays Eight as a government duty or Land Tax. He was had at work; delighted with the conviction that now he should have to pay only 8 instead of 20 and oftimes 50 Reals, levied by the French. He admitted that eight Reals was trifling. Moreover, he added, "I pay that to my own lawful Government"! When the little table was prepared for our dinners, with our silver spoons and forks and Pollock's plated goblets, the contrast to the other parts of the house was very great.

This day in our route, we passed through a village occupied by Horse Artillery. I saw an Officer sitting on the bridge; and was about to pass him unheedingly; his earnest look at me induced me to look at him, when we had again exchanged looks, he sprang forward, exclaiming "Good Lord, is not your name Crowe? Yes! And is not your name Day? It was James Day from Norwich. And had we been more nearly related, we could not have been more mutually pleased with the encounter.

October 5th. 

We ordered the baggage to take the direct road to Renteirea (Errenteria ?). And leaving our rural abode about 8.o.clo. made the best of our time to visit the ruins of the famed fortress of San Sabastion. The morning was most lovely and the blue sea bursting suddenly to our view after a few brief observations, wafted our thoughts our fond thoughts, to England, for some time.

We reached the spot where our Engineers first broke ground; which rising, did not, at first, require much labour to render the approaches safe. A large Convent on the right had been transmuted into a Fortress of considerable importance, as an advanced position. It was taken by Portuguese; and very much was said about their gallant conduct on the occasion. Within a few days the French recaptured it; and deserved infinite praise for the boldness of the attempt and the bravery with which they retained it.

This Convent, converted, rivetted our attention for some time, and we were surprised to see it still standing: we could not conjecture, why one brick was left on another, as our Lines so entirely commanded its situation. In our progress we could, by the Gabions still standing, mark the admirable position of our various batteries: all of which had a good command or range, until our lines reached the sea shore. When our Engineers advanced their approaches in rear of the Convent they exhumed many coffins of French Officers and place them in their ramparts; which being now levelled, these coffins were exposed to the weather, more or less. Our regrets and indignation were much excited, that these coffins had not be place in the trenches, and again buried. When we came in full view of the Fortress, we noticed that the sea wall on the East had been carefully repaired; to effect which, the workmen had cleared away and made use of chief of the materials battered down from the awful breaches, on which our own immediate comrades had died, and by which our brave soldiers had reached the heights. This circumstance was a great disappointment to us! For we had fully resolved to have secured our steeds, and with a melancholy satisfaction passed up over the footsteps of our lost comrades; and searched out the spots where our much lamented friend Jack Harding, poor Kenyon, and other brave fellow had died!!! The town showed all the horrors of a bombardment: excepting the houses under the Rock, on which the Citadel is built, which our guns could not reach, not one remained entire. They had been uniform and handsome; with stone basements, and had extensive and handsome balconies to the upper windows. The streets are parallel, and at right angles. We could not discover a land or alley anywhere.

The ascent from the town to the Citadel on the South side of the rock, was in Barbet: but the French built a parapet with flat loose stones, sufficiently high to secure all passes up and down. When ascending this road we arrived at the fatal South East angle commanding the main breach, from whence the besieged incessantly poured forth death and destruction on their assailants. This parapet originally had but one large gun: in consequence of our attack, however, it became a most important place, and the French, by cutting into the face of the rock, and other expedients, established three twenty-four-pounders, on traversing carriages. These kept up such an unceasing fire, that their touch-holes, the size of this quill with which I am writing, were fused, like holes in a honey-comb; which admitted my four fingers! The centre gun was dismounted and burst, by one of our shots sticking in its muzzle. From this spot we had a full view of the Breach; and well contented that our turn of duty had not forced us into it. I reflected upon it with acute feelings for had I been with the Regiment, and Harding availed himself of his office as Acting Adjutant I must have risked my life there. Approaching the Castle we had a view of the North side of the Rock furrowed by the shot and shells from our guns which had passed over the Citadel: to which the Garrison retired, after our troops had taken possession of the town; but next day surrendered. And well they might! Their ammunition was exhausted we their flour magazine no longer proof against the weather, and the few remaining bags were so mouldy that they could not be lifted.

On passing through the different apartments of the Castle we were surprised to observe how remarkably thin the walls of the upper rooms were. We could distinctly perceive that our balls, from our batteries, and also from our ships in the bay, had passed directly through both walls although so elevated. Every room had from two to six perforations of this kind; excepting the Donjon; which being in the rock, had escaped.  The 400 Portuguese taken prisoners by the French when they recaptured the Convent, were confined in the upper part of the Castle: sixty of whom were killed by out shots. Having attentively surveyed the fortifications collectively we were strongly inclined to the opinion, that the Engineer who constructed these works, relied too much on the appeared strength of the conical shaped rock. For had it not been the additions which the French made in various parts the capture would not have cost us so dearly. It will be many years ere this town and fortress can be restored to their original grandeur and importance. On leaving San Sabastian we passed by the route along which poor Jack Harding and his gallant party must have advanced to their death beds.

On arriving at Renterias (Errenteria?)  we found our servants waiting; having received a billet for another country quarter; full half a league back the road we had come. There was no redress; though it proved worse than our last night's abode. From the field in front of the house we had a very picturesque view of Passages, or Pas-sa haes (Pueto de Pasajes or Pasaia?); from when the packets sailed for England. It is, probably, the most extraordinary port in the whole world. I cannot suppose there is such another. Without any appearance of the proximity of the sea, we found a basin, of less than a hundred acres in extent, with an unruffled surface, and vessels from six to eight hundred tons safely moored to the banks. The egress is a chasm between two perpendicular rocks, twice the heights of the mast-head of a large brig. On the eastern rock is a neglected fort, destitute of guns. A casual observer would imagine this to be a most secure port; and such it is, in itself; but ingress and egress are dangerous; for in case of any swell in the bay, towards the opening, vessels are in danger of being driven on the rocks on either side. No ship ventures out but with an ebbing tide, for in such a confined place sails are useless. The passage is not more than 150 feet wide.

October 6th. 

We could obtain nothing but salt meat, or regular junk, for our rations, at Renteiria. And moved off little satisfied with our cargo. We passed through Oarazun (Oiartzun?); and between one and two.

 After noon took possession, for the night, of a forsaken house, by the road side. The valley was very picturesque, the day fine, and the clear river most inviting; that we took a cold bath before dinner. I must admit our quarters were capacious; but by no means accommodating, or comfortable; for as the night advanced the wind and rain drove in most bitterly; and the shutters to the windows in front having been destroyed we were compelled to force the doors off the back apartments to fence out the weather. Moreover, our situation was so lonesome, that we considered it requisite to keep watch throughout the night. Fortunately the ground floor, was a wine store, and had no opening but the main entrance to the house. Over which was a wooden balcony; under whose partial shelter, our servants kept a good fire with the abundance of fuel, which we had providentially secured: and we ordered them to stand sentry by turns; and give the alarm, should any person approach. Pollock and I, did not undress but with drawn swords in hand, crept under our blankets. This precaution was soon tested. For about 11 o'clock my servant being on duty, fired a shot, and called out, "Stand to your arms!!" My friend and I, had not long made our appearance below, when a very suspicious and desperate looking fellow, a pisan, came towards us, pretending to be looking for his lost mule. We told him very plainly that we knew this was flam; for the sentry heard him conversing with his comrades, before the shot was fired: and that if he, or any man, or any number of men dared to come near the house, during the night we would show them no mercy. During this parlance we frequently stirred up the fire with our drawn swords. Our vigilance and alertness had a good effect: for although we kept a dog watch, we rested ourselves unmolested for the remainder of the night.

October 7th.

We moved off in good time; but the road was so very steep and bad we could proceed but slowly; and were obliged to dismount, and walk chief of the way. On approaching to Lesaca (Lesaka?) we were informed that the whole front of the army was engaged. We left our baggage and hurried forward through Lesaca, reaching Bara (Bera, Fance?) between two and three o.clock. Here we ascertained that our own Division had only moved up in support of the Light Division and the Spaniards, in driving the enemy from their numerous breastworks; which, as I have before stated intersected our lines; and on which they had been actively working during their long sojourn in that locality. We ascended the heights, following the track of the contending parties; and were grieved to see so many sad proofs of the undaunted manner in which our gallant Riflemen had advanced. We did not, I think, pass anyone of these field works, without seeing two or three of the brave fellows dead; evidently shot in surmounting the embankment and fallen back into the ditch. A large work near the centre of the position had been contested most bravely; as evinced by the many dead on both sides. But our attention was rivetted for some time to two who had bayoneted each other; and though opposed in life, were united in death! For it would have required considerable force to have unclenched their grasp of their muskets!! We could not but compare the two countenances; the contrast forced itself on our notice. The Frenchman was evidently an old soldier, and had perhaps witnessed many a hard fought battle: his cp, low on his brow, was well secured under his chin, and his livid countenance still wore the satanick and malicious grin of desperation! The young Rifleman's cap had rolled back into the ditch; leaving his full and curling hair floating in the breeze: a good tempered smile rested on his ruddy face; which seemed to say, "I bar no malice to anyone, I have only done my duty!!" His sword-bayonet was thrust, with all the vigor of youth, far through his antagonist. We overtook our Regiment about 4 o'clock, and accompanied them to their ground above Lesaca: under the mountain that was still contested by the Spaniards and French.

Our baggage came up in good time for us to pitch our tents for the night. Allowing me before it was quite dark, to run, and shake hands with my old friends Captains Reid and Wauch of the 48th who had joined during my absence. I received a letter from my father, dated July 24th

October 8th.

We remained inactive this day; and amused our leisure by watching the firing on the mountain; chief part of which was perpendicular, the rest very rough and inaccessible, there was but one ascent; thereby rendering it a natural fortress. It was past noon ere the Spaniards could gain possession. I judge this to be what on the maps is called the Crown Mountain.

At night I was ordered on picquet with Major Thomas and Lieutenant Ruddock. 

October 9th.

We advanced at daybreak in support of the Spaniards; who were sharply attacked at an early hour. After halting for many hours we took up our ground in a young oak wood. Our baggage was late in reaching us. I was excessively ill; but fortunately fell in with Captain Smith of the 20th Regiment, nephew of Sir Sidney Smith, who gave me two cups of tea; which revived me much. We are decidedly in France near Serrè (Sare, Fance?).

October 10th & 11th. I spent in Company's Accounts.

October 12th. 

Dined with the Colonel. I am removed to the 8th Company under Captain Chitty, who lately came from the 2nd Battalion in Valencia: an Englishman; very gentlemanly and agreeable. We chum very pleasantly.

Our tent was near the road, with a good view of the Crown mountain. In the evening Harry Franklin and Pollock, sat chatting with us, when the 20th Regiment retired to their camp. As he passed we asked Captain Smith how he was. He replied in his every cheerful and jocular way O may dear fellows we are all alive, although fagged out with two nights bivouack in support of those rascally Spaniards, but lying on the ground they had occupied, we are most animated!  For "we have lice in all  our quarters!!" Soon afterwards we saw Downie, the Spanish General, approaching; a fine rattling Irishman, formerly a Commission (Also Assistant Surgeon crossed out) of our army attached to the Spanish Service in the Alentejo; when Portugal was the seat of --- and an old acquaintance of Franklins. As soon as he saw Harry's cheerful face, with three bounds he was in the midst of us! Pulling off his gorgeous sash and sword, he threw himself down in our tent, exclaiming "I am going on very important business, and have not a minute to spare but it is impossible to pass Harry Franklin. Come lads give me some wine, for I am as dry as a lime-burner's wig!! Oh! How delightful to be once more in the company of good fellows!! My curse on those lousy dastardly Spaniard!! What a labourious task have I had with them in those mountains!! If you Red Coats had not remained so close at our heels, I never could have urged the villains on. Oh! How I wish myself back in my old post!!! !!! Franklin reminded him of his rank and pay as a General Officer. "Psha! Nonsense, he replied. "I tell you that I should be a far richer and much happier man with my old Corps!"

But recollect your Honors, and your Legion with Downie cut out of tin, I front of their caps! 

"My dear fellow I cannot stop to talk about such trumpery, I must be going! With sword and sash in hand, he sprang up on his feet, and went off with the elastic step of a native mountaineer. Shakespeare asserts "There is a turn and tide in the affairs of man, which taken at the flood, lead to honor and distinction, but if once lost can never be regained" Such was Downie's case!!! We watched him round the base of the mountain on our left ere we returned to the tent, when Franklin exclaimed, "How extraordinary had been that man's career! Soon after the commencement of the Peninsular War he came out in the Commissariat Department (reference to surgeon crossed out) In the South of Spain he was Commissary of a Spanish force stationed in the Alentijo near the French lines; which were strong, and kept our Advanced Guard in check. A party of the enemy, one night, assaulted this station, and behaved with all their wanted cruelty and wanton desperation. Downie roused the Spaniards to action; mustered all capable of bearing arms, pursued and routed the assailants; and following up his success, proceeded so far into the French lines, that the whole army retired (with the full persuasion that it was a General Attack by our army)  and maintained his ground until relieved by the Advance Guards. This gallant event opened the Field for others most important: and having been effected by Spaniards, their Government became wild with enthusiasm: instantly appointed Downie a full General in their service: and the Cortes gave him the Sword of Pizarro!! A Legion, or, Brigade was quickly formed; of which every man had a tin plate round the bottom of his cap, with Downie cut in front. On one occasion when pressing hard on the enemy, they came to a small river; Downie dashed through it; but to his dismay found that not one of his men had followed his example! Drawing himself up, he indignantly threw back his sword exclaiming "Take that back to your Cortes, and tell them I scorned to betray the Sword of Pizarro!!! This well timed and spirited rebuke had its full effect every man instantly rushed forward. After this brave act a Regiment of Cavalry was added to his Brigade; clad and appointed (except that their lackets were red.) like our Hussars. But the comparison will hold no further! Their unsoldierlike manner, would make it burlesque!!" He was shot through both chests and bayoneted in the side: which old wound oft caused him much pain.

October 13th.

This day began at a very early hour; for soon after midnight we were awakened by very sharp firing; and arose in full expectation of a sudden order to advance. No order arriving we laid down on our blankets till about 5.o.clo. when we advanced to support the Spaniards. We found that they had decidedly lost the advanced redoubt; nor did we marvel for it was quite within the French lines: that we were surprised they had been suffered to retain it a whole week. Availing themselves of the huts found of branches, which they had erected, the French endeavoured to regain the Second Redoubt but the Spaniards set fire to the huts, and secured their own position. Regardless of all this, the French strove hard for this Second Redoubt and the two guns they had left there; which they were anxious to redeem. Ere noon they gave it up as a bad job. And in the afternoon we levelled the works, rolling the guns down to the ravine beneath.

Agreeable to the Brigade Orders of yesterday for an officer to be sent to the advanced posts to report to General Sir Lowry Cole what occurred in front, I was ordered to remain, when the Brigade retired to their camp. I remained till dark; and returned with the working party.

October 14th.

A rainy morning. I have sent my pony with the foraging party to Passages for corn. Wrote a letter to Radcliff.

October 15th & 16th.

I fagged hard at the 5th Company's Accounts finding great difficulties; in consequence of two Serjeants having been employed therein during my absence.

October 17th.

Sunday

The morning very fine; the Brigade attended Divine Service. A tremendous hurricane came on, after midday; and continued without intermission; and obliged us to be unremitting in our attention to the pegs and cords, for fear of our tent being blown away.

October 18th.

The wind continues with pelting rain.

October 19th.

So ill I could not raise myself the whole day; my head was in agony: applied to Franklin, who made for me some Calomel pills and applied for me to be admitted into a house in Bera; which our Staff Surgeon would not allow but next day ordered me to the rear.

October 21st.

Our Paymaster having received orders for the Short and Long Bat and forage, advanced me ten guineas on account. I have so arranged the Accounts of the 5th Company, that my friend Boyle can settle them for me. And I started this morning with my servant, Barry Bradley, and baggage. I had not travelled a league, ere I was attacked by a fit of fever. It was fortunate that the day was so fine; for thrice was I obliged to dismount and lay down; that I proceeded but slowly on my route. I arrived at Irun about sunset: but it was so crowded with Spanish soldiers, that a billet was refused, and I was ordered to proceed to Fontarabia (Hondarribia ?); which was out of my way. I arrived before it became dark; and was sent a mile further to a house by the sea beach.

Fontarabia, situate on the South Bank of the Bidasoa (Bidassoa ?) just above its confluence with the sea is a very striking object and would from many points make a good picture. Its lofty walls, founded on rock, but now delapsed, prove that once it was of some importance. The entrance has double gates, with drawbridge to it.

My billet proved to be very indifferent; but I was so completely worn out, that I instantly threw myself on the bed; wholly regardless of the inhabitants it might contain; and a return of fever made me callous to their attacks. Excepting a bunch of ordinary grapes at Irun, I had eaten nothing during the day. My servant made me some tea; and I drank two cups of it, before I went to bed, where I passed a restless and sleepless night: but just before day break, nature was exhausted; and I slept so late that my march was retarded.

October 22nd.

While breakfast was preparing I strolled to the sea beach; and sent a sigh across to England! It was a sigh of affectionate remembrance, for my only regret was, that I was obliged to leave my regiment in face of the enemy, in daily expectation of a great battle!! But, "whatever is, is right!!" I made but a poor breakfast after my ramble: and the bright Sun was over clouded ere I finished: that I could no longer see the camps of the 1st and 5th Divisions on the other side of river. I started in a pelting rain for Passages; the Hospital Station to which I was ordered. Reported myself to Staff Surgeon Doctor Baxter, late Surgeon in the 48th Regiment and to whom my good friends, Paymaster Hughes and Captain Parry had given me letters of introduction. But the town was so full that I was ordered to return to this mud hole, Renteiria. And only obtained billet on a very ordinary house, already occupied by a Conductor of Stores, a Subordinate of the Commissariate. I asserted my priority of rank, and obtained the only bed, such as it is, for my friends in England would be astonished at its component parts; the fourteen inches height of stump bedstead being filled with branches pruned from the vine; and which, although very elastic, were not at all soft or agreeable; despite the thin bed of - I know not what- place above. I must endeavour to obtain better quarters. I wish I could obtain the opposite house; where my brother officer Lieutenant Shaw waits for a passage to England. Lieutenant Harnet, with a party, for Arms, left the regiment the same day as myself; has accomplished his mission, and will return on the morrow.

October 23rd.

Shaw is ordered to Passages to take his passage. The Commandant will not grant me his quarters; but has ordered my companion the Conductor off. Having the house to myself, and the Stable beneath being more than usually secure, I will be content with my lot, in spite of my uncomfortable bed with swarms of fleas. My servant and baggage shall occupy the small room out of mine, now vacant. The people are as dirty as the house, but very civil, as soon as they comprehend our signs of what we want: but as true Biscayans they understand the Spanish language as little as English or French. During the afternoon when we were endeavouring to make our quarters as clean and comfortable as we could, my servant went to ask our hostess the loan of a broom, an article indispensably requisite in England, in all shapes and forms but here totally unknown! He returned in a great wrath, exclaiming "Troth, but these are the queerest folk I ever came neer!" How so Barney Bradley? "Why, sure now, they don't understand their own language, when I spoke Spanish to them; and when I spake Portuguese they know as little of that!!" Then truly Barney, I knew not what you are to do; unless you talk Irish to them! "Is it now Irish that you are talking about" he indignantly replied, "Sure they have not wit enough to understand that!!" In this sulky humour he went out; and was absent a long time. On his return, I found he had gone to the neighbouring hills, to cut broom for his purpose. With that, and a vine-dresser's heavy hoe, he got, fully a barrow load of dirt, from off the floor of my room; to the astonishment of the inhabitants of the house: who were evidently much pleased with the neatness when finished. Nevertheless, their genuflections and crossing of themselves, betrayed a superstitious awe of the innovation to their own habits.

October 24th. 

Sunday

I was too ill to do more than read the Service for the morning. But, as Stern's Corporal Trim states, "A Soldier, when he as time, prays as fervently as a parson!"

October 25th.

I felt better this morning; and the fine weather tempted me to venture over the harbour in a boat to Passages. By this route the distance is about three miles; but more than four by the road. I am well pleased I did not obtain a quarter in this confined town; the dirt exceeds even Renteiria. In the Praça, or market place I should have been molested by the incessant noise, and the back streets are execrable. The coast out side the harbour's mouth is rocky, and the swell of the sea, the Bay of Biscay, great; that the supply of fish is uncertain, and very indifferent in kind. I gave three shillings for a Dogfish, not a foot in circumference: but it was good flavoured; and will give me two more dinners. An immense swell set into this secluded harbour, on Saturday night and caused the vessels to beat each other to pieces: the damage is estimated at ?12.000! All that are left sea worthy, are clearing out in great haste. Sir George Collier is Port Admiral. The packet for England is a new and compact vessel; and will sail tomorrow morning.

October 26th.

Began a letter to my brother Phillip.

October 27th.

A detachment of the 4th Division arrived from Vitoria. Ensign Clunis, of our regiment was with it. He breakfasted with me and as the day was fine I escorted him to Passages; and we returned to a late dinner. I was rejoiced to find he had recovered from the very singular wound received at Pamplona. A bullet entered six inches above the left knee; a slight inflammation showed its upward course: the Surgeon fearing that it had entered the lower part of the body, kept their patient in bed. But finding, after long observation, no further trace, ordered him to take exercise. Some time after the ball was cut out of the corresponding spot above the right knee!!

October 28th.

Torrents of rain all day.

October 29th.

Clunis and the detachment returned this morning. I am greatly surprised by the receipt of a letter from the sister of my friend Lieutenant Joe Hill, dated September 24th in reply to my letter of the 6th of that month, which I wrote by Joe's earnest request, at his bedside at Vitoria to inform his mother of his loss of his leg high above the left knee. I wrote a second letter this day. Considering that the letter was directed to me at Vitoria was sent from thence to the regiment, and followed me hither, it is an unusually quick transit; and would not have tried my patience had the young lady been interested for me, instead of her brother.

October 30th. 

Torrents of rain, which, with these open windows, but ill accord with any continued course of Calomel. Wrapped in my boat-cloak, I wrote to an old friend in Norfolk.

October 31st.

 Sunday

Spent the day in a satisfactory way. I found myself the better for a walk during the sunshine of the morning. In the afternoon finished my letter to my brother.

November 1st. 

Sent my servant to Passages with my two letters for England: and to fetch my linen from the washerwoman; for here is no one that I can employ. Lieutenant Brynes of our regiment, on his way from Vitoria, is detained here for Depôt Duty. He dined with me: and in the evening, his fellow traveller, Assistant Staff Surgeon Randall, who attended Pollock and Radcliffe, kindly paid me a visit.

November 2nd. 

A fine morning. I accompanied Byrnes and Lieutenant Boyle of the 82nd Regiment to Passages. We found the harbour quite full; many transports having entered yesterday. Some from St.Andero with convalescents; and some from England with reinforcements; of which, a detachment for our regiment Ensigns Phibbs, (name erased), Weir and Slattery, with 105 fine young men. They were quickly landed, and marched off to Barazun, near Irun, where I suppose they will halt a day or two. Byrnes and I introduced ourselves to Ensign Kater, who is here sick. A good tempered thoughtless, rattling, little fellow; who will not be able to stand much hard service. On our return we met Ensign Weir with Dr Felton, who had recognised him. In the evening Lieutenant Fairfield arrived from the Regiment with a party for corn. I enquired if he had dined; and his young soldier's made him answer in the affirmative: but the truth soon came out; and he was glad to partake of bread and cheese, the utmost I could then offer.

November 3rd.

Fairfield breakfasted with us, and made up for his fast of yesterday; or, from what we could make out, of many days! For we could not learn when he last had a regular meal. He is one of those heedless chaps, who quickly spend their money, then live as they can. He very soon obtained his loads of corn; and started off on his return; probably the only man of the whole party of some thirty who had naught to eat on the road. We found out that young Weir is in search of a baggage animal. On leaving Passages, like a regular Jonny Newcome, he gave his haversack, with its contents to a Serjeant to carry for him. Overjoyed at meeting Dr Felton, he never thought of his haversack; but now recollected that therein is all his money! I mounted him on my mule to search for his riches at Ourayun. In the afternoon he sent his servant with the mule and a note expressing his thanks; and stating that the men of the detachment were so disorderly that Ensign Phibbs could not allow him again to be absent. But requesting me to send his and Phibbs baggage on, by his brother's mule, which had arrived for corn. This was another specimen of Jonny Raw! A load of corn is quite burthen enough for any animal, along such roads. But the foraging party being gone, I could not comply with his request. I went to examine the nature of the baggage: and, more to my amusement than surprise, I found these very young soldiers had fallen into the general error, here is baggage enough to load three strong animals!! I requested Dr Felton to allow it to remain under his care; for should these young chaps be ordered to march to the Regiment, they must leave it in care of natives, who would plunder it. The Doctor coincided with my opinion; and I returned Weir an answer to that effect.

November 4th.

I omitted the other day, to mention a letter I received from our Colonel, requesting me to ascertain if any regimental clothing or stores had arrived, by these numerous transports. Having written my official report that there was nothing arrived here, I gladly availed myself of this fine, lovely morning, to go to Passages and put my reply into the letter box in the office of the Commissariat; whom I found in a rather warm altercation with a Captain of the Royal Navy; whose back was towards me, but his voice interested me much more than the topic of conversation, some what about the duty of Transports, and their mode of entering the harbour. I did not heed what it was all about; for I felt confident that I knew the voice, although more excited than I ever heard before. The Captain closed the debate rather with warmth, saying, "I cannot wait any longer, I am under sailing orders; and my Frigate is standing off and on, waiting my return. But as I have charge of this Coast I tell you, Major, these order must be obeyed!

I marked the limp as he turned around, which confirmed my surmises; and instantly I was face to face with Frederick Langford; with whom I parted a few years since in my father's house at Swaffham. He fixed his eyes on mine, in an enquiring state of surprise, for a few second, then seized my hand exclaiming, "Why Charles, is it possible, that we meet again on foreign service! I am certainly glad to see you but you look cursedly ill!" I told him I was suffering from Coup de Soleil. "Oh! That is a bad case, he replied. I wish I was not under sail, I would have taken you on board my ship and soon made you well! Now I cannot stop; For this troublesome business has already detained me too long. Good by, my dear fellow! I hope you will soon get well; and give the French a d&ldots;d good licking in the Spring!!! And off he went.

The good fellow obtained his promotion in a very singular manner: and as I heard Dr William, the Second Lord Nelson, relate the circumstances to my father, I will here recount them: for now there are not many people who know the event. In his usual blunt manner, The Doctor said, "I have been unintentionally Mr. C. the cause of promoting Lieutenant Langford the son of Mr Landford, your neighbour, in this town I wrote to my brother Horace, that in his Fleet there was a Lieutenant Frederick Langford, a son of a Clergyman whom I wished to be promoted. My brother hit on this Frederick Ld and posted him; and informed me that he had complied with my request; and thanking me for bringing him to the acquaintance of such a worthy gallant fellow!! I soon found the mistake; and wrote to Horace that it was Frederick, son of Dr. Langford of Eton, I wished to be promoted as it might help my son Horace, at that school. My brother replied I will comply with your request as soon as I can, but I will be friend of Frederick the first, as long as I live, for he is an honor to the County of Norfolk."

Two more transports have arrived, with reinforcements, and many very, very young Officers. I have not, for a long time, seen so many smart new jackets out in their very best! One young chap of the Fusiliers sported this tall Bearskin Grenadier Cap and looked tremendously fine and grand! Poor lad! He will very soon be glad to leave it in some ravine, never to see daylight again. During my absence Phibbs and Weir came over for their baggage. In the evening I went over and sat with Boyle of the 82nd.

November 5th.

I ought to have stated that "the limp as Captain Langford turned round," was caused by the severe would he received in the hip, form a grape shot, when culling out some French gunboat from Bologne harbour. And that Lady Hamilton of notoriety (see Life of Nelson) attended his sick bed daily, till he recovered.

While I was at breakfast this morning Phibbs and Weir arrived to draw rations for their Detachment previous to their march tomorrow. They will be escorted to the regiment by Lieutenant Weir, who has been sent to Oaryun to take the command of the party: the presence of an Old Officer is highly requisite, to re-establish order, for last night they fought with some artillery men, and have nearly killed three. I was introduced to Ensign Slattery of the Detachment, who is to remain here on the sick list. He is a very, very young Officer. I was ordered to attend the Medical Board: after long waiting my case is postponed for tomorrow. The current rumour of this day states that our Army was to attack the enemy before daybreak: however founded, this report was much strengthened by the sound all the morning, of a distant and heavy cannonading. My chum Radcliffe having recovered his horse at Vitoria, arrived at noon and is ordered to remain here for Garrison duty. In the afternoon he rode off to see his old companion Lieutenant Weir at Oarazun, and return; a mighty pleasant nocturnal ride this! Who, but Tom, would have started on such a wild goose-chase? Pamplona having surrendered, the Garrison was this evening marched into this town to wait transport to England. They are a remarkably fine body of men; their looks, and hilarity, do not denote the great hardships and privations, which they must have suffered. Provisions were so scarce, that it is supposed they have not left even a rat or mouse alive in the fortifications. A strong Guard at each gateway keep them within the walls of this town.

November 6th.

These Frenchmen have kept up an incessant jabbering throughout the night. Most heartily do I wish them safely lodged in Foctin, or Yaxley Depôts. The Church is appropriated to them as their barrack; and is already in a most filthy state for in addition to the natural want of cleanliness in these people, they are all, more or less suffering from diarrhoea, in consequence of their late privations, and some of them to such an extreme, that they cannot get out to relieve themselves. We are told that 1500 were too ill to leave the fortress. My brother officer, Byrnes, who lodges with me, has charge of 664 of these prisoners. There are 1915 in this town. And at Leso the same number making a Garrison of 5330 men: a much larger number than was estimated when we invested Pamplona. These prisoners have abundance of money; and eagerly purchase at any price. Disgusted with Byne's duty Tom Radcliffe has marched with the Detachment and sent a man with a note to me, to order his baggage to overtake him this night. The Commandant has enough to engage his attention, and may therefore overlook this bold attempt of my friend. But Tom is confident that our Colonel will not censure him!! He has forfeited, by this disobedience of Orders, three days rations for himself, servant, and animals! But Tom is an excellent forager. And I am confident that his servant will look out for something for the poor "Bastes," as well as his own mouth. I passed the Medical Board this morning: where I fell in with Lieutenant Moore of the 45th Regiment, who informed me that when the Army advanced after the Battle of Pamplona his Division, the 3rd, returned by Roncesvalles; and that on his progress, his attention was drawn to a naked corpse in a garden, with the bowels protruding from a desparate wound across the abdomen; and that on close attention he recognised the face of his school fellow Charles Crawford! I felt quite a disgust to this man, when I found that he was not the Old School fellow who did bury poor Crawford's remains!!

November 7th.

Sunday

After the observance of the day, I walked out; to enjoy the fine weather as much as my miserably aching head would allow.

November 8th.

At Passages I was informed that the rumour on Friday of the Army attacking was false: most of the army remains in statu quo as when I left it. I saw a packet come in with a mail from England. And profusion of stores of every description, landing from transports.

I met Lieutenant Wilbraham, R.N. who walked with Hambley and myself from Barricalia to Punhete on our route from Lisbon, where he was Agent for Transports. I should have been glad, could he have assured me that his long and arduous services had been rewarded by promotion.

A suttler asked 50 dollars, just fifteen pounds for Canteens; which I could have purchased at Portsmouth for three guineas and a half.

November 9th.

A large blister was last night applied to my neck: that now,, if not high minded, I am stiff necked!! This troublesome companion instead of relieving made my poor head more miserable that I wandered along the mud wall of the harbour, until I was opposite the convent on the other side, which is close to Passages. The tide was excessively high, and the busy boats of various shapes, kind, and nation, scudding about, aided by the fine weather, presented an interesting scene, had I been well enough to have enjoyed it. A detachment of the 77th Regiment is come round from Lisbon to escort these French prisoners to England.

I found that Taylor is of this party. He was with the regimental Depot at Danbury Barracks, when I was there with the 2nd Battalion. 48th Regiment. The air and duty of Lisbon has agreed with him.

After I was returned to my quarters, I heard much talking with heavy foot-steps on the stairs, and went to ascertain the cause; when I met three Spanish Officers attended by the Alcalda, or Mayor, coming up to enforce three billets in this house. I told them there were two English Officers, and their servants here, besides the two families; that there was no room for more. One of the Officers was extremely indignant; and endeavoured to pull me down stairs; but received in kind, what he so officiously intended for me. I knocked him down upon the Alcalda. As soon as he could recover his feet, he drew his sword, and cut furiously at me. I put my fist to his nose, and calmly assured him that although I was without my sword, if he did not instantly sheath his, I would break it over his head!! The Alcalda interposed and desired the ruffian to descend: consequently I allowed the rest of the party to ascend. At this juncture Byrnes and my servant came to my support: they coolly opened the window shutters, determined to bundle both the Officers and the Alcalda out into the street! Their indignation was so furious that I had great difficulty to establish a cessation of the hostilities. If I had not succeeded in this, as Senior in rank, I should have been in a very awkward predicament. For however custom justified me in resisting encroachment on my own billet, I had no right to resist the Alcalda in locating one of the Spaniards on the poor family in the atticks.

November 10th.

The French prisoners were marched off this morning by an Officer of the Quarter Master General's staff. The Church is opened for ventilation; and unfortunately the wind is in the South, and blows the stench up to my quarters, rendering my room insufferable. I was compelled to walk out for fresh air. Curiosity induced me to go up to the Church door, inspite of my olfactory nerves; the floor was really ankle deep with filth! I never witnessed such a sight. And the street on the south side of the Church was like an open sewer!! I never saw such an accumulation of filth!! I was obliged to wander beyond the bridge to relieve my miserable head.

November 11th.

Today I was in even greater pain; and vainly expected my doctors; for they did not come. Received a letter from Close.

November 12th.

Endured great agony. About four in the afternoon the Assistant Staff Surgeon came, attended by an Hospital Mate, or Assistant: and ordered my head to be shaved. Which operation Byrnes kindly performed for me, and put on the capacious blister, which the Hospital Mate sent.

November 14th.

I can tell nothing of the events of yesterday, but from my servants report. He states that the doctors were much alarmed at the state in which they found me. I judge that my excruciating sufferings made me delirious! They have again dressed my miserable Caba?a (head)" and declared that the utmost remedy had now been applied, and that if the pain was not relieved before the blister healed, there was no alternative for me, but going to England; as the only chance for my recovery! That should I brave another summer in this country, and experienced a relapse before having perfectly recovered from this attack the  result must be fatal in some way; loss of sight would, at least, be certain to ensue!! There could be no doubt, but that my disorder had been occasioned by extreme heat of the Sun, that is, I was Sun struck! The effects of which must be thoroughly eradicated or a relapse would occur. Delightful comfort this! For a wretch whose head is as painful within as without; and his heart in unison therewith!! When left to myself the "Blue devils" attacked me most furiously, ere I could recollect that it was Sunday, when I made the best use of my prayer book that my weak state would admit.

November 15th.

I am informed Lord Wellington has appointed a certain number of prisoners from Pamplona to be exchanged; including the Governor, who has petitioned to be allowed to proceed to England, rather than return to France. Six hundred prisoners form the front, marched to Passages, for transport; escorted by a party of the 16th Light Dragoons.

November 16th.

There has been incessant rain for the last three days: nevertheless, the town is not, I am told, yet purified. I rose to dinner much below par; for, during my sleepless night a dreadfully low fit came on me; that I even cried from sorrow and vexation; before I could pray for relief, and although I had a little sleep after but could not shake off my melancholy!

November 17th. 

I was compelled to sit up in my bed this morning, to make out my Return for drawing rations. I found myself better for the exertion; and wrote to my friend Close of the 48th and Boyle of our own regiment. Before I had finished my fellow lodger Byrnes came to take leave of me; he having received an unexpected order to escort some prisoners to Head Quarters at San Pe?, who were to be exchanged. My blistered head is healed; but contrary to the Surgeon's expectation I am in great pain, that in spite of any reluctance I much fear I shall be obliged to return to England when I am in Orders to do so. For the present according to General Orders promulgated this day, I have a month's sick leave to Bilboa. How truly absurd and annoying this! How is it possible for me to remove, and for what! When Dr. Fenton came to see me in compliance with my request sent  I stated how much I was molested by the Order, he promised me a Certificate if necessary, that I was incapable of removing. I learn that I must remain in durance vile, until the 5th December when my leave will expire; and I appear before another Board of Strange Medical Officers; who will know only the official statement of my case, and the black marks put against my name, for I have a strong impression that some of the Medicoes imagine that I am sculking, despite the severe treatment received from them; and my frequented repeated disinclination to return to England!! The Assistant Staff Surgeon in his attendance this day, did deviate from his usually sententious remarks; by relating an attempt by two men of the 63rd Regiment to rob his house last night. And that they are to be tried tomorrow. He also told me, that two men, the other night, entered the room where two officers of 16th Dragoons were in bed in two recesses. The villains had a light, and deliberately ransacked the clothes on the chair beside the first bed, unlocked the baggage, and took whatever they pleased: then proceeded to the other recess; and when satisfied quietly retired with their booty. The two officers confessed that they were awakened, and saw all that passed, but did not dare to resist, for fear of having their throats cut! Oh! What valiant Heroes! Their swords stood within their reach, but they were afraid to use them!! What are we to expect from troops led by such doughty commanders!!!

November 19th.

I was more free from pain yesterday; but awoke this morning in great pain; and did not rise till late. Mr Slattery introduce a Mr McDonald of the 74th just imported who stated that he was in the same Company in the East Middlesex Militia, with my cousin Captain Fincham and my brother Edward, of whom he speaks most highly. My visitors informed me, that the Fleet with invalids and prisoners, after being out three days is driven back to port by stress of weather.

November 20th.

A Medical Board assembled this day but did not concern me. An entire day of rain, and I may say, of pain. I think it is Eliza, writing to Yorick, on her birthday says, "we mark our existence by the days of pain and misery we endure; while those of ease pass unnoticed in enjoyment!" I will therefore refrain from detailing my daily sufferings.

November 21st

Sunday

Having read the Service for this morning, I rose to enjoy the fine day. When my servant went to Passages for my linen, I sent a note to Mr Kater requesting the loan of any books he might have. The cub stupidly sent me two military books. The afternoon was so fine that I strolled to nearly opposite the Convent, and met Surgeon Buckley of the 48th on horse back; who is on the Sick List of Passages. We looked for some time, at each other, in doubt and surprise, and both were surprised that two men, who only three months back were so intimate should thus hesitate to recognise each other. When we parted this circumstance pressed on my mind, and weighed down my spirit, as I sauntered home. Where I was well pleased to find Ensign McNicoll arrived from the regiment with a party for corn. He dined with me; and after, I sent of Slattery

McNicoll informs me that there was much sharp fighting with the enemy on the 10th and that our regiment came in for its share of hard knocks. Major Johnson was killed; and his little son, who came out with him, and joined us in June as a volunteer must now return to England, to solicit for a commission. He will doubtless succeed under such a circumstance. Lieutenant Crawley of the Light Company was taken prisoner. Ensigns Phibbs, Galbraith, and Ireland (late Serjeant Major) were wounded; and fourteen men: and nineteen or our men were killed.

November 22nd.

By the frostiness of this lovely day I fervently hope the weather will become more settled. In my walk today I met Colonel Erskine of the 48th on his way back to England. Two months ago, when at Vitoria, on his route to join the Old Corps, I passed, without saluting him. Now, he was glad to find any one to speak to him; and condescended to recognise me. We had a long conversation; but I was very cavalier with him; for I always disliked the man. My antipathy began with our first acquaintance. When I introduced myself on joining the 2nd Battalion of the 48th Regiment at Northampton Colonel Erskine said, "You come from the West Suffolk Militia, they have excellent bugles, drummers and fifers: on the next volunteering from the Militia, I shall send you to your Old Corps to obtain as many of them as possible" I instantly replied, "I hope and request Colonel, you will not send me on such an errand, for I should not be able to fulfil your wishes! Sir William Parker my late Colonel is justly proud of his bugles and fifers; having perfected them at his own expence; instead of taxing his officers for the support of a band of music. I have received much personal kindness, and strong marks of friendship from Sir William, and I could not undertake so ungracious a duty!!" This, of course, placed me on the Colonel's 'Black List,' that is, I was no favourite. It is very curious that some such coincidence always attended me, on joining a new Corps. When I joined the West Suffolk Militia at Sunderland Sir William Parker reproved me for making my appearance on the 25th of the month, instead of, on, or before the 24th. Whereas the voyage from Lynn in Norfolk oft times accomplished in sixteen hours, had, by the perseverance of the winds and waves, detained me sixteen nights and days! I have before stated the malignant prejudices I had to contend against on joining the 27th Regiment. I am reluctant to forego the history of this Colonel Erskine; because it will elucidate the evils of a military life, which rarely meet the eye and cognizance of civilians.

When Major, and in command of the regiment, at Oporto, he dismounted, and headed the Grenadiers in their valiant charge. He was wounded: and sent to England: but, his object was attained; he was promoted to Lieutenant Colonel. In this rank an Officer must wait the gradation of promotion: and Erskine's military ardour evaporated. After a full absence for a slight wound he returned to the Peninsula. And as Field Officer of the working party, before Badazos, sculked and was hustled and justled in the entrenchment by his own men, when a sortie was made by the Garrison. After which he, somehow, obtained leave to return to England; and, under the interest of his wife's family, who were engaged about Court, managed to stay at home a very long time; during which I joined the 48th. He remained at Northampton with us, but a short time: and I saw him no more, until I passed him in Vitoria. When I rejoined the Army in October I heard much of his ill fame from my old comrades. In the camp of which we took possession October 9th, the ground studded with stumps of the young oak trees which had been cut down, Colonel Erskine had the rashness and absurd folly to order the whole regiment to practice the Go, Goose step, the imitation of recruits on a level barrack square! This, and many other ill judged petty acts of want of judgement, and of abused authority, roused the Corps of Veterans, who had done their duty manfully in many a hard fought battle, almost to open rebellion!! I never learned the particulars of the result, except, that Colonel Erskine was attacked by ague (i.e. a shaking fit!) and the Doctors recommended him to return to England. I encountered him under these circumstances; and must add, I never saw any man in fuller enjoyment of health!! In 1816 my communication with my Old Corps, then stationed at Naas, near Dublin, informed me, that Erskine, in command, had pursued his wanted tyrannical conduct, to such an extent that Lieutenant General Sir Lowry Cole K.C.B. was sent by the Commander of the Forces in Ireland, to enquire into the case. Having done so, Cole told Erskine that if he did not alter his conduct, he should be dismissed from the Service!! This quieted Erskine in a great measure; but when the Regiment received orders to prepare for foreign service, Brevet Major Thwaites, the senior Captain, with some others, resolved to forego their long and arduous services, and chances of promotion rather than be under such a man; and retired on Half pay. The regiment was sent to New South Wales where Erskine's tyranny again effervesced; and very many of my old brother Officers (my crony close, and Val Blomfield inclusive) exchanged their commissions for grants of land, and became settlers. The regiment next moved to Bombay: where Colonel Erskine died, if not "unshrived," certainly unwept," unhonoured "and unsung!"

I was visited this day by Drs Boatflower and Fenton, their questions and prescription, I fancied had a strong tendency to England! I fervently wish my sick leave was expired, and my irksome suspense ended.

November 23rd.

The weather continuing fine, I took a short walk this afternoon. On my return my opposite neighbour, Lieutenant Campbell of the 71st Regiment brought from the post office my friend Close's reply to my letter of the 17th. It is so replete with kindness and friendly solicitude, that it was too much for my feelings! In the evening I was compelled to poultice an extremely painful boil on the centre of my breast.

November 24th.

A party is come from the regiment to escort the clothing and stores; of which I can gain no intelligence. Sent one of Grenadiers, with a pass, to make enquiries at Tolosa. Took a short walk at the flood time in the harbour, and returned quite exhausted.

November 25th. 

Ensign Kater came from Passages to see me. When he had lunched, I accompanied him back to the ferry opposite the Convent. On my way I missed the Brigade of Battering Guns; and was informed they moved off this morning for Bayonne. This looks as if something was about to take place in good earnest.

November 26th.

Another painful boil on the extremity of my back, obliged me to remain in bed. In my suffering I imbibed a supposition that this was Sunday, and kept the day holy. My serious thoughts were interrupted by a Sutler of the 34th Regiment who came to purchase my old friend, my mule. I felt great reluctance to part with the noble beast, although he did compel me to swim across the Bidasoa, but with the apparent certainty of my being obliged to return to England, when I should not be able to obtain half the value, I thought it bad policy to refuse an Order on the regimental paymaster, subscribed by an Officer of the regiment, for 130 dollars at six shillings each. Should I be able to rejoin the Army, my legs must carry me, and my pony the baggage; which does not by a wide difference equal my weight. The Grenadier returned from Tolosa; but no intelligence of the clothing etc. He brought the information that the Paymaster General has advanced his quarters on the 21st to Irun.

November 27th. 

Obliged to remain in bed, till dinner time.

November 28th.

Sunday

Another Sabbath spent in bed! About 3.p.m. I arose: and in compliance with Kater's most earnest request, however unequal to the undertaking, went over to see him. I found him confined to bed; and most truly miserable no poor wretch ever more earnestly wished himself back in England. I sympathised with him most feelingly! For although a short time I used actually to weep at the prospect of being obliged to return home, yet, what I have lately suffered induces me to consider such a measure as my only chance of regaining health. This day week will decide my fate.

November 29th.

I learn that the next Medical Board will be composed of entirely new Medicoes. Be this as it may, I cannot imagine it will alter my destination. I borrowed from Kater a fine edition of Campbell's Pleasures of Hope: lavished I had not, for some parts of it, excited very painful reflections!!

November 30th. 

A party of the 48th is arrived for corn. The officer has received a billet in this house above me. He is newly imported and I know nothing of him. But the Serjeant is an old stager; and most respectfully called to enquire for me. While he drank some Grog I made enquiries about my old and particular acquaintances.

December 1st.

This day a party arrived from my own Regiment; under the command of Ensign Ovens; who dined with me. He was heartily grieved at finding me so ill; and expressed his sympathy in the kindest manner. Yet his very little but queer chap, was particularly active in exciting the enmity which I encountered from the Junior Officers on joining the 27th Regiment.

December 2nd. 

A deficiency of corn has detained Ovens and party.

December 3rd.

I was surprised by a visit of a new Medical man, Assistant Staff Surgeon Christie. His gentlemanly suavity of manners was very prepossessing; and induced me to relate my sufferings very frankly; to which he listened with an apparent interest which surprised me yet more. After many searching questions, he said "Do you recollect experiencing at any particular time, the heat of the sun more than usually oppressive?" I replied "Oh! Pray Doctor do not talk on that subject!! "Yes, he replied, but I must: and request you to state full particulars, how it occurred; what you experienced at the time; and what has been the consequence?" Accordingly, I gave him a full description of the events of the 15th of August. When he said "I thought as much, from the first of your statement o